Chambers's journal of popular literature, science, and art, fifth series, no. 119, vol. III, April 4, 1886Various
History
Chambers's journal of popular literature, science, and art, fifth series, no. 119, vol. III, April 4, 1886
Various
Periodicals
The skin is next hung up in a stove or heated room, where it rapidly
dries. When dry, it is handed over to a man whose business it is to
examine it; and if, as is almost always the case, it is too thick for
the purpose for which it is intended, or is of unequal thickness, to
pare it down until it is of the required thickness and of one uniform
thickness all over. In some places this process is carried on in the
factory, but more commonly in an outbuilding attached to the workman’s
home. It is done by means of a peculiar knife, shaped like a quoit, the
outer edge of which is kept very sharp. Fixing the skin, by a dexterous
movement of the hand, to a horizontal bar in front of him, he lays hold
of it with the left hand to keep it stretched, and with the right hand
scrapes off so much of the fleshy matter at the back of it as may be
needed. Considerable skill is required to pare the skin without cutting
it, and should the workman be awkward, he may not only injure his work
but seriously cut himself.
The skins are next passed under the eye of an experienced workman, who
assorts them into their various qualities. After this, they are passed
on to another room, where they are first rolled up in damp cloths, very
much after the manner in which a laundress rolls up clothes preparatory
to wringing the water out of them; and, when so rolled up, they are
vigorously pulled, so as to develop their utmost stretching capacity
from head to tail. Then they are spread out on a broad flat table, and
carefully, though very quickly, for the workman’s eye gets exceedingly
sharp, examined for flaws or defects of any kind, such as the scar
left by a wound or thorn-scratch, or a thin place, which when found is
instantly made into a hole. The examination over, the cutter has made
up his mind how this particular skin before him can be cut up to the
best advantage—that is, in such a manner as to leave as little waste
as possible. His mind made up, he lays on a paper pattern, taking
care to place it so that it shall be the right way of the grain and
not across it; then, with a pair of shears, resembling sheep-shears,
he cuts it into as many oblong squares—each of which is just large
enough for one glove—as the material will admit of. Out of the parts
left he cuts pieces for the thumbs and fourchettes or sides of the
fingers—usually pronounced ‘forgets’—and for the binding round the
top and the opening just above the palm of the hand, which are called
‘welts.’ Having cut a number of skins, he proceeds to pair the pieces,
endeavouring to match them exactly in colour and quality, and to make
up little bundles containing all the pieces necessary for each pair of
gloves. This process is one of the most important of all those through
which the leather passes. A clumsy or careless workman will cut it to
waste, getting several pairs of gloves less out of a dozen skins than
a clever and careful one. As we watch the process, we are struck with
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