Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886Various
History
Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886
Various
Periodicals
In the other case, a death occurred under circumstances which are
happily without a parallel in the annals of mountaineering. Two
members of the Basle section of the Swiss Alpine Club—a body in no
way connected with our own Alpine Club—engaged three guides—J. M.
Lochmatter and Joseph Brantschen, both of St Nicolas, and P. Beytrison
of Evolena—to take them over the Matterhorn from Breuil to Zermatt.
They left the first-named place on the morning of August 12, and in the
afternoon reached the hut which the Italian Alpine Club have built at
an elevation of some thirteen thousand feet, amidst the wildest crags
of the Matterhorn, intending to sleep there, and cross the mountain
to Zermatt in the course of the following day. During the night, the
guide Brantschen was taken ill, and by morning had become so weak
as to be quite unable to move. Now, under these circumstances, it
might have been supposed that Brantschen would have been the first
consideration; but the two Swiss gentlemen thought otherwise. Instead
of at once abandoning the expedition, and sending down for help to
Breuil, after a brief consultation they announced to Lochmatter their
intention of proceeding to Zermatt, and ordered him and Beytrison to
get ready to start. They were conscious of the fact that Brantschen
had become dangerously ill, and appear to have demurred at first, but
weakly gave in on their employers insisting. A blanket was thrown over
the sick man, a little food placed beside him, and then the party filed
out of the hut, and the door was shut. It is possible that in their
leaving Brantschen they were scarcely alive to the consequences of
their act; it is to be hoped, at all events, that they were not; but
from the moment that the hut was left, they deliberately condemned the
sick man to at least thirty-six hours of absolute solitude. In fact,
by the adoption of this course, the nearest succour—at the pace of the
party—was nineteen and a half hours off, whereas Breuil would have been
only eight. They crossed the mountain safely, but being bad walkers,
did not reach Zermatt till half-past one the following morning. They
then caused a relief party of guides to be sent out; but it was too
late. On reaching the hut, the unfortunate man was found to be dead.
The conduct of his employers did not escape criticism both at home and
abroad.
There have been accidents on the Matterhorn since 1879; but although in
more than one instance there has been a narrow escape, only once has
any further life been sacrificed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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