Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886Various
History
Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, Fifth Series, No. 148, Vol. III, October 30, 1886
Various
Periodicals
Within a few days of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, on July 18,
1865, J. A. Carrel and Bich succeeded in reaching the summit from the
Italian side, by a feat of rock-climbing scarcely equalled for daring
in the annals of mountaineering. Since then, ascents of the Matterhorn
have multiplied year by year; but for every one ascent by the Italian
route, there must be twenty at least by the Zermatt. In fact, the
former route is scarcely adapted for any but good mountaineers. The
Matterhorn has also been climbed from the Zmutt side; but this route
has never become popular. The first traveller to ascend the Matterhorn
from Breuil was Mr F. Craufurd Grove, the present President of the
Alpine Club; and of other remarkable ascents may be mentioned those of
Miss Walker, accompanied by her brother and Mr Gardiner—Miss Walker
being the first lady to climb the Matterhorn—of the Misses Pigeon, who
were weather-bound for three days in the hut on the Italian side; and
in descending to Zermatt, after crossing the summit, were benighted,
and had to remain on the open mountain-side till daybreak; of Messrs
Cawood, Colgrove, and Cust, who made the ascent from Zermatt without
guides; of the ill-fated expeditions in which the lives of Dr Moseley,
the guide Brantschen, and Mr Borckhardt were lost; and of Mr Mummery
and the late Mr Penhall, who each discovered a new route from the Zmutt
side.
The Matterhorn has likewise been ascended in the winter; as the writer
can assert from experience, having accomplished the feat—such as it
was—in the days when it had not become the everyday affair that it is
now. With two guides, one of whom was the well-known Joseph Imboden
of St Nicolas, I arrived at Zermatt one fine afternoon in August,
resolved upon a one-day ascent of the Matterhorn. A start was to be
made at midnight; and soon after that hour, we were picking our way
over the stones which paved the deserted village street in the darkness
of a moonless night. Leaving the village behind us, we commenced to
ascend through the meadows beyond the village, Imboden leading, and
never for a moment pausing, although, in that uncertain light, it was
difficult to distinguish a track of any kind. We reached the barren
Hörnli Ridge, and as we commenced to traverse it, the sky grew lighter
with the dawn of day. We were close to the foot of the Matterhorn now,
and it loomed upon us, towering high into the sky, and seeming to my
eyes one mighty series of precipices from base to summit. There was a
solemn grandeur about the scene which seemed even to have its influence
upon my companion, for not a word was spoken as we strode on towards
the mountain. But when once we were upon the rock itself, I found that
the difficulties which I had pictured to myself as likely to arise had
little existence in fact; the series of precipices resolved themselves
into a rocky surface, much broken, and yielding capital hand and foot
hold everywhere. The incline, too, was very much less steep than it
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