When a visitor enters a Yamen, he realises that his manners must be
those of a most polished diplomat. Before him walks a servant, holding
aloft his visiting card. One really ought to have special Chinese
cards printed on beautiful sheets of red paper with queer-looking
characters on them setting forth one's rank and name. However, in
these days of admiration of the West, our poor little white cards are
considered adequate. The Viceroy or official meets the visitor,
enthusiastically shaking his own hands--the Chinese salutation--and
bowing low; the particular door at which he meets his guest marks the
amount of respect he wishes to pay him, and is therefore of some
importance. In my case, when my host was favourable to higher
education, I was received in the outer court. At every door there was
a polite contest as to who should go through it first, and at last we
found ourselves in a room where tea, dessert, champagne, and cigarettes
were offered, although of the two latter I was unworthy. Then began
the conversation. I found less stiffness once I had explained that I
came to gather opinions about a scheme for education. After the
stately interview was over there was an equally ceremonious
leave-taking.
Though the methods of the Chinese in doing business may be exasperating
to a Western whose time is money and who wants them to come to some
immediate decision, they are invariably delightful and courteous in all
their negotiations. This courtesy is all the direct result of
Confucian teaching. Stress is {72} laid there on courteous behaviour,
perhaps even to a degree which may strike the Western traveller as
absurd. This courtesy, I understand, extends even to those of lower
degree. Your servant in speaking to another calls him brother, and
nothing makes the servant despise his master so much as seeing him lose
his temper: it is to his mind a mark of our savagery.
The Chinese have higher virtues than courtesy. They are essentially
industrious. You have only to look at a Chinaman's garden to realise
the extent to which he possesses this quality. I am certain that those
people who are proud of the culture of their kitchen gardens would be
surprised and ashamed if they could compare them with those of a
Chinaman. One passes garden after garden with rows of plants placed at
even distances and every plant exactly the right distance in those
rows, with never a weed to be seen all over the whole plot. Again in
handicraft there is the same industry; you buy Chinese embroidery for a
song in such a place as Changsha. No one will tell you that Chinamen
ever object to length of hours; they are ideal men for work that needs
care and accuracy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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