Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
The sister of St. Bernard, however, evidently lacked the power of
repartee of St. Edith, daughter of King Edgar, who, though brought
up in a convent at Wilton, and destined to the life of the cloister,
nevertheless had a weakness for clothes which seemed too fine and
gay for a nun. St. Ethelwold, who, it is clear, must have shared the
opinions of St. Bernard upon the subject of finery, and ventured to
upbraid her, received this crushing reply: "God's doom, that may not
fail, is pleased only with conscience. Therefore I trow that as clean
a soul may be under those clothes that are arrayed with gold as under
thy slight fur-skins." He was reminded also that St. Augustine had said
that pride could lurk even in rags. This latter sally calls to mind
the story of Diogenes spitting upon the floor of Plato's house and
exclaiming, "Thus I trample on the pride of Plato." "With _greater_
pride, O Diogenes," was the quiet rejoinder.
Dowglas, the monk of Glastonbury, writing against the extravagances
which were rife during the latter half of the reign of Edward III.,
says: "The English haunted so much unto the foly of strangers, that
every year they changed them in diverse shapes and disguisings of
clothing, now long, now large, now wide, now strait, and every day
clothingges, new and destitute, and devest from all honesty of old
arraye or good usage; and another time in short clothes, and so strait
waisted, with full sleeves and tapetes of surcoats and hodes, over long
and large, all so ragged and knib on every side, and all so shattered,
and also buttoned, that I with truth shall say, they seem more like to
tormentors or devils in their clothing, and also in their shoying and
other arraye than they seemed to be like men."
The authors of the "Roman de la Rose," William de Lorris, who died
in 1260, and John de Meun, who continued and finished the poem about
1304, are amongst the most severe of these satirists. In alluding to
the unnecessary length of their trains, the author advises the ladies,
if their legs be not handsome, nor their feet small and delicate, to
wear long robes trailing on the pavement to hide them; those having
pretty feet are counselled to elevate their robes, as if for air and
convenience, that all who are passing may see and admire. This has been
imitated by Ben Jonson, who in his "Silent Woman" makes Truewit say:--
"I love a good dressing before any beauty o' the world. Oh, a woman is
then like a delicate garden; nor is there one kind of it; she may vary
every hour; take often counsel of her glass, and choose the best. If
she have good ears, show them; good hair, lay it out; good legs, wear
short clothes; a good hand, discover it often; practise any art to
mend breath, cleanse teeth, repair eyebrows, paint, and profess it."
[Illustration: MARIA
D. G. ANGLIÆ, SCOTIÆ, FRANCIÆ ET HIBERNIÆ REGINA.
QUEEN MARY.]
The author of the "Roxburghe Ballads" ("A Woman's Birth and Education")
informs us that when Cupid first beheld a woman--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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