Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
"He prankt it up in Fardingals and Muffs,
In Masks, Rebatos, Shapperowns, and Wyers,
In Paintings, Powd'rings, Perriwigs, and Cuffes,
In Dutch, Italian, Spanish, French attires;
Thus was it born, brought forth, and made Love's baby,
And this is that which now we call a Lady."
Nor was it the fair sex only who were thus lampooned. The men also came
in for their share, and were as much the objects of the satirist's
wrath as were the women:--
"Your ruffs and your bands,
And your cuffs at your hands,
Your pipes and your smokes,
And your short curtall clokes,
Scarfes, feathers and swerdes,
And their bodkin beards;
Your wastes a span long,
Your knees with points hung
Like morrice-dance bels
And many toyes els."
SKELTON, _Elinor Rummin_, 1625.
The Knight of La Tour Landry, writing towards the close of the
fourteenth century, in order to deter his daughters from extravagance
and superfluity of dress, recounts a story of a knight who, having
lost his wife, applied to "an heremyte hys uncle" to know whether she
was saved or not and how it "stode with her." The hermit, after many
prayers, dreamed that he saw "Seint Michelle & the develle that had her
in a balaunce, & alle her good dedes in the same balaunce, & a develle
& alle her evelle dedes in that other balaunce. & the most that grevid
her was her good & gay clothing, & furres of gray menivere & letuse; &
the develle cried & sayde, Seint Michel, this woman had tenne diverse
gownes & as mani cotes; & thou wost welle lesse myghte have suffised
her after the lawe of God; ... & he toke all her juellys and rynges,
... & also the false langage that she had saide ... & caste hem in the
balaunce with her evelle dedes." The "evelle dedes passed the good, &
weyed downe & overcame her good dedes. & there the develle toke her, &
bare her away, & putte her clothes & aray brennyng in the flawme on her
with the fire of helle, & kist her doune into the pitte of helle; ... &
the pore soul cried, & made moche sorughe & pite ... but it boted not."
Lydgate, the famous monk of Bury, and one of the foremost poets of his
time, was unwearying in his condemnation of the extravagances of dress,
his pet aversion being the horned head-dresses which obtained during
the York and Lancastrian period. In a "Ditty of Women's Horns," he
unbosoms himself as follows:--
"Clerkys recorde, by gret auctoryté,
Hornes wer yove to bestys for dyffence;
A thing contrarye to femynté,
To be maad sturdy of resystence.
But arche wives, egre in ther vyolence,
Fers as tygres for to make affray
They have despit, and ageyn concyence
Lyst nat of pryde, then hornes cast away."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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