Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
It will readily be imagined that cloth of gold was necessarily costly.
The Princess Mary (afterwards Queen), thirteen years before she came
to the throne, "Payed to Peycocke, of London, for xix yerds iii qrt of
clothe of golde at xxxviij_s._ the yerde. xxxvij_li._ x_s._ vj_d._" and
for "a yerde & dr qrt of clothe of silver xl_s._" In later times the
use of the pure gold thread was discontinued except for very costly
garments, and tissues were made of silver-gilt or copper-gilt thread.
The thin paper which we now know by the name of tissue paper was
originally made for the purpose of being placed between the pieces of
stuff to prevent tarnishing when laid by.
Silk, like the sun, and so many other good things comes to us from
the "sacred East." The earliest mention of it is in Aristotle, who
refers to the importation into the Western world of raw silk. Silken
garments were brought to Rome from a very early period, but on account
of their costliness were worn only by a very few. Heliogabalus was the
first Emperor who wore silk for clothing. By the revised code of laws
issued for the Roman Empire in 533 A.D., a monopoly of silk
weaving was given to the Court, looms being set up in the imperial
palace and worked by women. The raw material, however, had still to
be brought from abroad. The story of the introduction of the silkworm
into Constantinople will serve to show how jealously the secret of the
rearing of the worm was kept by the peoples of the East. The eggs of
the silkworm were brought, hidden in their walking staves, by two Greek
monks, who had lived many years amongst the Chinese and learnt the
process of rearing the worm, and who carried them to Constantinople and
presented them to the Emperor. Very soon afterwards the Western world
reared its own silk.
Silk was known under different names at various periods, according
to its colour, texture, or design. Samite, Samit, Examitum, is a
six-threaded tissue, and consequently costly. The hand which grasped
the sword Excalibur when it was thrown into the lake was clothed in
white samite--
"Launcelot and the Queen were cledde
In robes of a rich wede,
Of samyte white, with silver shredde."
Ciclatoun was a substance of light texture, and was used both for
ecclesiastical purposes and for the more stately dresses of a secular
character. Chaucer, in his "Rime of Sire Thopas," says:--
"Of Brugges were his hosen broun
His robe was of ciclatoun."
Cendal was a less costly fabric, and was also used largely in
ecclesiastical vestments.
Taffeta was a thin transparent textile, and was used, as well as
cendal, during the Middle Ages for linings.
Sarcenet also is a light webbed silk, and by degrees supplanted cendal.
Satin was also used in the Middle Ages, and is mentioned by Chaucer in
his "Man of Lawe's Tale," but was not brought into general use until
later. The beauties of the Court of Charles II., as pictured by Sir
Peter Lely, are usually clad in satin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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