Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Velvet, that most sumptuous material, has always been held in high
estimation on account of the richness of its texture and fold. It has
always been used, since its introduction into the West, for robes of
state and for the more sumptuous kind of dress. The place of its origin
is not known, but it probably comes from China.
[Illustration: DUCHESS OF ANCASTER (AFTER HUDSON).]
In a letter preserved in the Record Office (_circa_ 1505) to Edmund de
la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, from his steward Killingworth (De la Pole had
been indicted of homicide and murder, "for slaying of a mean person in
his rage and fury," and had fled to Flanders), conveying excuses from
some person un-named, mentioned only as "your friend," for not having
communicated with De la Pole earlier, as he had hoped, to send him news
from England, the writer continues:--
"For your gown he axked me howe many elles velvet wold serve you.
I told hym xiiij Englishe yerdis, and then he saied, 'What lynyng
thereunto?' I answerde 'Sarcenet' by cause of the lest coste to helpe
it forward. And he saide to me, 'Wel, I shal see what I can doo
therin.' Soo, sir, if it please you to write to him in Duche, and thank
him, and geve but oon worde therin towching your gown, I doubte not ye
shal have hyt."
The patternings of woven brocades, damasks and other textiles afford
an interest quite apart from mere utility, or the purpose for which
they were intended to serve as an ornamental adjunct to dress, since
by their means we are able to trace the great ornamental traditions to
their original source in the East.
The history of the art of weaving in China is lost in obscurity, but we
may reasonably infer from our knowledge of the character of its people
that neither their methods nor the character of the ornamentation have
materially changed during a period of as much as two thousand years.
Dionysius Periegetes informs us that the Seres "make precious figured
garments resembling in colour the flowers of the field, and rivalling
in fineness the work of spiders."
It is certain that the Egyptians practised the art of weaving from very
early times, although the earliest ornamental fabrics found in Egypt
are of the sixth century A.D. In later times, however, their
woven fabrics were exceedingly sumptuous. Shakespeare's description of
the barge of Cleopatra will be familiar to all--
"The barge she sat in, like a burnished throne
Burned on the water:
Purple the sails, and so perfumed that
The winds were love-sick with them; she did lie
In her pavilion--cloth of gold, of tissue," &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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