Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
"A coronell on hur hedd sett,
Hur clothys wyth bestes and byrdes wer bete,
All abowte for pryde."
And now contrast all this with the extreme poverty of the dress of
the present day, and turn our thoughts for a moment to those terrible
cylindrical enormities the pot-hat and trousers.
Dress? we don't dress--we simply cover our nakedness--as in
architecture we are content if we keep out wind and wet. We have
forgotten how to dress as we have forgotten how to build, and beauty
has forsaken dress as it has forsaken the rest of the decorative arts.
Dress is, or should be, one of the decorative arts; the adornment of
a "human," assuming that Nature's marvel must be covered, is, to say
the very least, as important as the adornment of a brick wall. What
is the explanation of the wave of Philistinism which swept not only
England but the rest of the world at the beginning of the nineteenth
century? Can it be the rise of science, which, bringing in its wake
the mechanical fiend, has reduced everything to rule and compass, and
thus brought about the death of the æsthetic sense? No other period of
the world's history but some country forged ahead and kept alight the
sacred lamp of beauty.
* * * * *
Trousers are apparently eternal; they date from the beginning, and will
endure, one fears, to the end of sublunary time. Of late there has
been a tendency, especially amongst middle-aged and elderly men, to
affect the knickerbocker, although whether the æsthetic principle is
the mainspring of this tendency, coupled with a natural and pardonable
desire to exhibit a well-developed calf, or whether, peradventure, the
"too old at twenty" cry is at the bottom of it, is a question which
provides food for reflection.
What, then, in view of this eternity of the trouser, can be done to
bring it abreast of modern taste and thought? because we _do_ move
in matters of taste, although almost imperceptibly. Speaking as a
designer, it seems only possible to develop the trouser in one of
two different directions--that of the peg-top or the bell-bottom.
Bell-bottoms may at once be ruled out of the running, since they have
become so identified with the coster fraternity that no man of fashion
would dream of adopting them. These, then, are the two extremes or
opposite poles. There is, however, as the late Mr. Gladstone would have
said, a third and middle course--_their columnar character might be
retained, and even emphasised_. The shafts might be fluted, as in the
Corinthian Order, or festooned, as in the "Prentice pillar."
[Illustration: LONDON PROMENADE DRESS, 1836.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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