Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
In all seriousness, however, the trouser is an absurdity even from
the point of view of mere comfort. A man cannot sit down without
first hitching himself up at the knee. The knee is the natural place
for the garment to be drawn in, as a certain degree of looseness is
necessary at that point in order to allow of the free movement of the
limb. Nature herself rebels against the trouser, and does her level
best to produce variety of fold, which makes for beauty. Philistine
man, however, decides otherwise, and that singular invention the
trouser-stretcher--true emblem of the modern spirit of incongruity--is
called into play, to undo during the night Nature's doings of the
previous day.
The late Lord Salisbury, in his speech at the Royal Academy Banquet on
April 30, 1887, is reported as saying: "Then consider the costume of
the period. Dresses seem to have been selected by the existing English
generation with a special desire to flout and gibe at and repudiate
all possibility of compliance with any sense of beauty. I am taxing my
memory, but I cannot remember any sculptor who has been bold enough to
give a life statue of any English notability in the evening dress of
the period. I am quite sure that if that man exists he must be strongly
tempted to commit suicide the moment his work appears."
The _Tailor and Cutter_--delightfully fascinating print!--has thrown
out many dark hints lately of impending startling changes in men's
attire. By the way, _who_ are the Rhadamanthine spirits who sit
mysteriously in judgment upon these high matters, issuing their fateful
decrees, regulating the delicate and subtle curves of the brim of a
pot-hat or the turn of a coat collar? Perhaps the _Tailor and Cutter_
knows, but, upon the principle that knowledge is power, declines to
say; anyway, whatever changes the immediate future may have in store
for us, we may take comfort from the fact that they must necessarily
be in the direction of betterment, since, having recently emerged from
that bottomless pit of all that is æsthetically terrible--the Victorian
era: the era of the crinoline, the antimacassar, and of wax flowers
under glass--we could not possibly strike a lower depth.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Gen. iii. 7, 21.
[2] This fable is so quaintly told in Lyly's "Euphues" (1580), that
it may be worth while to repeat it. "A gentleman walking abroard, the
Winde thought to blowe of(f) his cloake, which with great blastes and
blustering striving to vnloose it, made it to stick faster to his
backe, for the more the winde encreased the closer his cloake clapt to
his body, then the Sunne, shining with his hoat beames began to warme
this gentleman, who waxing som(e)what faint in this faire weather,
did not on(e)ly put of(f) his cloake but his coate, which the Wynde
perceiuing, yeelded the conquest to the Sunne."
[3] Carlyle, "Sartor Resartus."
[4] Stephen Gosson, "The School of Abuse."
[5] Exodus xxviii. 6-8.
II
THE
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