Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Both Strutt and some other writers on the subject of costume appear to
be puzzled by the _colouring_ of the earlier illuminators, principally,
however, with respect to the colour of the hair and beard, but
also in regard to the various details of costume. They remark the
curious circumstance of the hair and beard being painted _blue_. "In
representations of old men this might be considered only to indicate
_grey hair_; but even the flowing locks of Eve are painted blue in
one MS., and the heads of youth and age exhibit the same cerulean
tint." Strutt argues from this that some art of tinting or dyeing was
practised. A writer who quotes Strutt says: "The hair being painted
sometimes _green_ and _orange_ is in favour of this argument, but
such instances are very rare, and may have arisen from the idleness
of the illuminator, who daubed it, perhaps, with the nearest colour
at hand." This, however, was not in the least so. The explanation
is, as any _educated_ artist knows (artists are not _all_ educated),
that with the old illuminator _the decoration of the page_ was his
first consideration--rightly so; and the colour of the hair and beard,
together with the precise tint of the gown, would incline to either
blue, red, or yellow, accordingly as the exigencies of the general
colour scheme demanded. This fact should always be kept in mind in
considering the colour of any illuminated MS.
This colouring is amusingly parodied by Mr. Punch in his book of
British costumes (1860). He gives a fragment of a love song, "commonly
believed to have been written by King Vortigern, who was inveigled into
marriage with the daughter of old Hengist":--
"Rowena is my ladye-love,
Her robe itte is a gunna;
Shee wears blewe haire her ears above,
O is shee notte a stunna!"
He adds: "Critics disagree as to the meaning of the word 'stunna,' but
we incline, ourselves, to think it was a bit of Saxon slang, and from
the context we imagine it was used by way of compliment."
[Illustration: "TREUTHE'S PILGRYME ATTE PLOW."
_From the MS. R. 3, 14 in the Library of Trinity College, Cambridge._]
A development of the super-tunic was the surcoat, which was worn by
either sex during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. It assumed
a variety of forms, and was either a long loose outer garment,
variously shaped and sleeveless, or, as during the reign of Richard
II., was a shorter, closely-fitting jacket or coat with sleeves, and
usually trimmed with miniver or other fur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account