Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
The surcoat, or super-tunic, during the Anglo-Saxon period, was worn by
the nobility only, and was therefore made of the most costly material,
of silk or of finest linen, and often richly embroidered. As a matter
of fact, embroidery always forms a conspicuous element in Anglo-Saxon
dress, the Anglo-Saxon women being famous for their skill with the
needle. We learn from Eginhart that the four Princesses, daughters of
Edward the Elder, and sisters to Æthelstan, were celebrated for their
skill in spinning, weaving, and embroidering, and Editha, the wife of
Edward the Confessor, was a perfect mistress of the needle.
[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON DRESS (EIGHTH CENTURY).]
A somewhat remarkable feature of Anglo-Saxon dress of the eighth
century was the long super-tunic with long sleeves, worn in travelling
or during cold weather. The sleeves not only cover the hands, but
reach considerably below the tips of the fingers. The sleeves worn by
the Chinese mandarins at the present time are identical with the long
sleeves of the Anglo-Saxon period.
The tunic, so far as women's dress is concerned, may be said to have
finally disappeared by the time of the Tudors, when a woman's dress
consisted of kirtle or petticoat, and bodice or stomacher. Indeed, the
tunic proper may be said to have disappeared with the general change
which came about in costume immediately after the Norman Conquest,
the Saxon word "gunna" and the Norman "surcoat" better describing the
dresses of that period.
The term "tunic" is also applied to the military surcoat of the present
time, this article of military costume, however, bearing no sort of
affinity to the original tunic.
An important adjunct of the tunic was the girdle, by which the garment
was looped up and confined within reasonable limits. In the case of the
men, as Strutt observes, it served a double purpose, that of confining
the tunic, and supporting the sword.
Girdles were of various kinds--a sash of silk or other materials; or
formed of leather, either a simple thong or ornamented in various ways;
or of different cloths, richly embroidered and studded with jewels; or
of metal. The girdle of Charlemagne was composed of gold and silver.
"A girdel ful riche for the nanes
Of perry and of precious stanes."
_Ywaine and Gawin._
The Imperial girdle of the Holy Roman Empire was woven in silk and
gold, having a woven inscription upon the narrow border, and clasped by
means of a heavy gilt buckle.
It is recorded that upon the return of Henry VI. to England after his
coronation in France in 1432 the Lord Mayor of London rode to meet him
at Eltham, "being arrayed in crimson velvet, a great velvet hat furred,
a girdle of gold about his middle, and a baldrick of gold about his
neck trailing down behind him."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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