Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
The greatest richness of slashing always appears in the sleeve, a
common form being to slash the sleeve in ribbons, which hang loose from
the shoulder to the elbow. In the instances of several of the foot
soldiers in Hans Burgkmair's "Triumphs of Maximilian," the outer sleeve
is simply cut to ribbons, which stream loosely from the shoulder; and
it seems, indeed, a little curious that at present, when all sorts of
devices are employed for the purpose of producing variety, that some
fashion of this sort has not been adopted for women. It represents,
however, the most extreme development of the slash; it would be
impossible to carry the principle farther.
We now arrive at the period of the enormous trunk-hose, _temp._
Elizabeth and James I., of which an example of their highest
development appears in the illustration of "Knightly Pastimes--Hawking,
1575," and in which the middle of the body appears inflated like a
balloon, the "bombasting" of the breeches being carried to its utmost
limit. Their gipcieres are well in evidence in each instance. This
article of costume was, no doubt, originally a game bag, but was
afterwards generally used as a pocket or pouch--
"An anlas and a gipser al of silke
Heng at his gerdul white as morne mylke."
CHAUCER.
[Illustration: KNIGHTLY PASTIMES: HAWKING, 1575.]
The trunk-hose are, according to Stubbes ("Anatomy of Abuse"), of three
kinds--the French, the Gallic, and the Venetian hosen. The French hose
"are of two divers making; the common sort contain length, breadth,
and sideness sufficient, and they are made very round; the other sort
contain neither length, breadth, nor sideness proportionable, being not
past a quarter of a yard on the side, whereof some be paned or striped,
cut and drawn out with costly ornaments, with _canions_ adjoined,
reaching down beneath the knees.
"The Gallic hosen are made very large and wide, reaching down to the
knees only, with three or four gardes apiece laid down along the thigh
of either hose. The Venetian hosen reach beneath the knee to the
gartering-place of the leg, where they are tied finely with silken
points, and laid on also with rows or gardes, as the other before. And
yet notwithstanding, all this is not sufficient, except they be made
of silk, velvet, satin, damask, and other precious stuffs besides;
so that it is a small matter to bestow twenty nobles, ten pounds,
twenty pounds, forty pounds, yea, an hundred pounds, upon one pair of
breeches; and yet this is thought no abuse neither."
It has been stated by various writers that silk hose, _i.e._, stockings
of silk, were unknown in England prior to the middle of the sixteenth
century. However this may be, silk stockings were, in the reign of
Edward VI., considered as a gift worthy of a king's acceptance; it is
recorded that Sir Thomas Gresham (whose portrait appears on p. 121)
presented this monarch with a pair of long Spanish silk hose.
[Illustration: SIR THOMAS GRESHAM, 1519-1579.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account