Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
_Sir Antonio More, National Portrait Gallery._
_Photo by Emery Walker._]
In the inventory of the wardrobe of Henry VIII., taken after his
decease, appears: "One pair of short hose, of black silk and gold woven
together; one pair of hose, of purple silk and Venice gold, woven
like unto a cawl, and lined with blue silver sarsenet, edged with a
passemain of purple silk and of gold, wrought at Milan; one pair of
hose of white silk and gold knit, bought of Christopher Millener; six
pair of black silk hose knit."
We learn from Stow that Mistress Montague, the Queen's silk-woman,
presented Elizabeth with "a pair of black knit silk stockings,
which pleased her so well, that she would never wear any cloth hose
afterwards."
The "bombasting" of the trunk-hose (the word is usually applied to
the doublet, but may be applied equally well to the trunk-hose) was
effected by means of a stuffing of rags, wool, tow, hair, and even
bran. Holinshed relates a story of a man "who is said to have exhibited
the whole of his bed and table furniture, taken from these extensive
receptacles." The name trunk-hose would seem a peculiarly appropriate
one! The story is probably apocryphal (although quite plausible) of
the young man who, engaged in animated, and apparently rather excited
conversation with several ladies, caught his trunk-hose in a nail, and
let out the bran, the hose collapsing suddenly, to the consternation of
their wearer and the corresponding amusement of the ladies.
[Illustration: PHILIP II. OF SPAIN, 1527-1598.
_National Portrait Gallery._
_Photo by Emery Walker._]
Ben Jonson, "Every Man out of his Humour," thus recounts a misfortune
which happened to Fastidio in a duel: "I had on a gold cable hatband,
then new come up, of massie goldsmith's work, which I wore about a
murrey French hat, the brims of which were thick embroidered with
gold twist and spangles; I had an Italian cut-work band, ornamented
with pearls, which cost three pounds at the Exchange.... He, making
a reverse blow, falls upon my embossed girdle--I had thrown off the
hangers a little before; strikes off a skirt of a thick satin doublet
I had, lined with four taffataes; cuts off two panes of embroidered
pearls; rends through the drawings out of tissue; enters the lining,
and skips the flesh; and not having leisure to put off my silver
spurs, one of the rowels catched hold of the ruffle of my boot, it
being Spanish leather, and subject to tear; overthrows me, and rends
me two pairs of stockings, that I had put on being a raw morning--a
peach-colour and another."
In the same play, Fungoso, reckoning up the price of Fastidio's dress,
says: "Let me see; the doublet--say fifty shillings the doublet--and
between three and four pounds the hose,--then the boots, hat, and
band;--some ten or eleven pounds will do it all."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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