Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
It has been said that Milton was a man from his birth. The crinoline,
like Milton, is an exception to every law of development. It had, like
Milton, neither infancy nor adolescence, but sprang full armed, like
"Athene from the brain of Zeus," or perhaps, like Topsy in "Uncle
Tom's Cabin," it never was born, but just "growed"--and it grew--like
a mushroom (which indeed in form it somewhat resembles), in a night.
Or, to adopt yet another comparison, like the sun, which bursts in the
morning suddenly in its full refulgence, is obscured for a time by
clouds, to blaze again in unabated splendour, and in its turn is again
obscured, but only to reappear in glorious sunset.
The crinoletta, which followed, may be described as the twilight or
sweet afterglow--beautiful, tender as the blush on a maiden's cheek,
and almost as evanescent, but with none of the glory of the preceding
day.
[Illustration: QUEEN CHARLOTTE.
_After Gainsborough._]
In the charming passage from Fielding above quoted, Love, it will be
seen, figures as the presiding spirit. This is peculiarly appropriate
to the present subject, for, be it known, _Dan Cupid begat the
crinoline_. It is said to have been originally invented for the purpose
of concealing the illicit amours of a Princess of Spain; but singularly
enough, and in a sort of contradictory spirit, is first identified with
the august person of the "Maiden Queen."
The earlier portraits of Elizabeth exhibit her in a dress similar to
that of her sister and predecessor, and in an interesting portrait of
Catherine Parr at Glendon Hall, Northamptonshire, this Queen appears
in a richly embroidered petticoat widened at the base. A similar
petticoat or kirtle, widened a little at the hips, is shown in the
portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, with Darnley (p. 169). The hooped
petticoat or _vardingale_, however, appears only in the later portraits
of Elizabeth. In the famous print by William Rogers, of which a
reproduction is given, she is figured in the great ruff with which she
is most identified, the interminable stomacher, and the enormous wheel
farthingale, with, as Walpole observes, "a bushel of pearls bestrewed
over the entire figure"; she also wears a long light mantle edged with
lace, a portentous collar, also edged with lace, expanding like wings
on either side of the head. She carries the ball and sceptre in her
hands.
[Illustration: QUEEN ELIZABETH.
_From an engraving by William Rogers._]
The legend at the foot of the plate runs as follows:--
"The admired Empresse through the worlde applauded
For supreme virtues rarest imitation,
Whose Scepters rule fame's loud-voyc'd trumpet lawdeth
Into the eares of every forraigne nation.
Cannopey'd under powerfull angells winges
To her Immortall praise sweete Science singes."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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