Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Had it been black, one would have
spotted it at once; and this fact, when one comes to consider it, is
a little singular, since, if one were to march down Piccadilly some
fine afternoon crowned in a vermilion pot-hat, methinks one would not
_altogether_ escape notice.
There is, however, still another aspect of clothes which remains to
be considered, _i.e._, their symbolism. It has been written, "Manners
maketh man." It might also be written with even a still greater degree
of truth, "_Clothes_ maketh man," since clothes contribute so much
to man's dignity. Carlyle finds it difficult to imagine a naked Duke
of Windlestraw addressing a naked House of Lords, and asks, very
pertinently, "Who ever saw any Lord my-lorded in tattered blanket
fastened with a wooden skewer?" His King Toom-tabard (empty gown)
reigning over Scotland long after the man John Baliol had gone! His
quaint conceit of a suit of cast clothes, meekly bearing its honours,
without haughty looks or scornful gesture, has been imitated by
Thackeray in his amusing illustration of "Ludovicus Rex"--the "silent
dignity" of "Rex" as represented by the suit of clothes, the forlorn
appearance of Ludovicus, the magnificence of "Ludovicus Rex," all
testify to the great importance and value of costume, as contrasted
with the relatively trivial character of the wearer.
Who, then, shall dare to belittle the importance of costume? or to
affirm that character can rise superior to its environment? Our subject
is one of the most significant which can be presented to the reader's
consideration. It provides one of the most curious and fascinating
studies in the world.
[Illustration: "LUDOVICUS REX."
_From "Paris Sketches."_]
The materials upon which we base our knowledge of the dress of the
earlier periods of the world's history are necessarily scanty. For
the Egyptian and Assyrian period we are dependent upon monumental
inscriptions and carving, and the few papyri which have survived the
ravages of time. For the Greek and Roman period, upon sculpture,
pottery, and the written description of the more considerable authors.
For the Byzantine, Frankish, and Gothic periods, upon mosaic,
monumental effigies, and illuminated MSS. It is not until what may be
called the age of the _painter_ that we may be said to emerge into the
broad light of day, and the pencils of Holbein, Rubens, and Vandyke
make things clearer for us. The sumptuary laws, however, enacted at
various periods, against excess in apparel and extravagance in dress,
let in a flood of light on the manners and customs of the times, and in
them will be found many curious and interesting details. The principal
Acts are the following: 2 Edw. II. c. 4; 37 Edw. III. cc. 8, 14; 3 Edw.
IV. c. 1; 22 Edw. IV. c. 1; 1 Hen. VIII. c. 14; 6 Hen. VIII. c. 1; 7
Hen. VIII. c. 6; 24 Hen. VIII. c. 13; 1 and 2 Phil. and Mary, c. 2; 8
Eliz. c. 11. All these laws were repealed by an Act of 1 Jac. I.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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