Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
This grandmotherly legislation, which was never effective, always
evaded and even defied, had a double object in view, first to induce
habits of thrift amongst all classes of the people, and secondly on
æsthetic grounds.
In the thirty-seventh year of the reign of Edward III. (A.D.
1363), the Commons exhibited a complaint in Parliament against the
general usage of expensive apparel not suited either to the degree or
income of the people; and an Act was passed by which the following
regulations were insisted upon: Furs of ermine and lettice, and
embellishments of pearls, excepting for a head-dress, were strictly
forbidden to any but the Royal Family, and nobles possessing upwards of
£1,000 per annum.
Cloths of gold and silver, and habits embroidered with jewellery, lined
with pure miniver, and other expensive furs, were permitted only to
knights and ladies, whose incomes exceeded 400 marks yearly.
Knights whose income exceeded 200 marks, or squires possessing £200
in lands or tenements, were permitted to wear cloth of silver with
ribands, girdles, &c., reasonably embellished with silver, and woollen
cloth, of the value of six marks the whole piece; but all persons under
the rank of knighthood, or of less property than the last mentioned,
were confined to the use of cloth not exceeding four marks the piece,
and were prohibited wearing silks and embroidered garments of any sort,
or embellishing their apparel with any ornaments of gold, silver, or
jewellery. Rings, buckles, ouches, girdles, and ribands were forbidden
them, and the penalty annexed to the infringement of this statute was
the forfeiture of the dress or ornament so made or worn.
In the reign of Henry IV. these laws were so little regarded that it
was found necessary to revive them with considerable additions. It was
enacted that--"No man not being a banneret, or person of high estate,"
was permitted to wear cloth of gold, of crimson, or cloth of velvet,
or motley velvet, or large hanging sleeves open or closed, or gowns so
long as to touch the ground, or to use the furs of ermine, lettice,
or marten, excepting only "gens d'armes quant ils sont armez."
Decorations of gold and silver were forbidden to all who possessed less
than £200 in goods and chattels, or £20 per annum, unless they were
heirs to estates of 50 marks per annum, or to £500 worth of goods and
chattels.
Four years afterwards it was ordained that no man, let his condition
be what it might, should be permitted to wear a gown or garment cut or
slashed into pieces in the form of letters, rose leaves, and posies
of various kinds, or any such-like devices, under the penalty of
forfeiting the same, and the offending tailor was to be imprisoned
during the King's pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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