_Fillings._--This word most easily explains the ordinary terms of "modes" and "a jours." The inner parts of the pattern in Needlepoint and Pillow lace are filled in with various ornamental stitches, showing an amazing variety of design. By these fillings various laces may often be distinguished, as each factory had its favourite "modes." _Grounds._--There are two varieties of grounds, one made with Brides, and the other either with Needlepoint or Pillow network. Other names for these are "Reseaux" and "Fonds." The method of making Needlepoint or woven ground often decides the date and class of the lace. _Guipure._--Literally a _tape lace_. The name however is applied to all Pillow laces having a tape-like design on them. _Picots._--The little loops used to ornament a plain bride or tie. [Illustration: VENETIAN ROSE POINT. (_S.K.M. Collection._)] III THE LACES OF ITALY [Illustration: VENETIAN ROSE POINT. Seventeenth Century. (_Author's Collection._)] III THE LACES OF ITALY _The Venetian Laces_ Venetian lace--"Rose Point"--"Point de Neige"--"Gros Point"--"Punto Tagliato a Foliami"--The South Kensington Collection. Needlepoint lace is made with needle and thread and principally in buttonhole stitches. A traced parchment pattern is procured, the outline made with a solitary thread stitched down to the parchment at frequent intervals. The thread is then worked over with fine buttonhole stitches; the modes or fillings have a fine network of threads stretched across, afterwards being buttonholed into a variety of designs. The edges are then again worked upon with loops or picots, and in "Rose Point" tiny stars or roses are worked on suitable parts of the design, sometimes the "roses" or "stars" being three in numbers, one poised upon the other. This is known as "Point de Neige" the whole surface of the lace being literally sprinkled with tiny stars somewhat representing a fine snowfall. The design is then connected with fine "brides," these in their turn being dotted and purled with stars and loops. Most of this exquisite lace requires a powerful magnifying-glass to discern the intricacy of the work. The finest lace of this variety was produced in the sixteenth century, the designs being bold, handsome, and purely Renaissance in type. That of the Louis Quatorze period shows the personal influence of his reign, frequently having tiny figures worked in the design. A collar in my possession has the Indian worshipping the sun (the King's glory was said to rival that of the sun) repeated in each scallop. This was a favourite design in the magnificent "Point de France" which was made during the long reign of Louis, under the management of Colbert.