Chats on Old Lace and NeedleworkLowes, Emily Leigh
History
Chats on Old Lace and Needlework
Lowes, Emily Leigh
Lace and lace making; Needlework
It is absolutely certain that the laces known as Venetian Point
originated in Italy. Pattern books still exist showing how the early
Reticella developed into this magnificent lace. In the National Library
at the South Kensington Museum, may be seen the very patterns designed
by Vinciolo, Vicellio, and Isabella Parasole. These publications
actually came from Venice, and being reproduced in France, Germany,
Belgium, and England, quickly aroused immense enthusiasm, and
lace-making spread far and wide, at first all other laces being mere
imitations of the Venetian.
[Illustration: CORALLINE POINT (VENETIAN).]
[Illustration: POINT PLAT DE VENISE (FLAT VENETIAN).
(_Author's Collection._)]
[Illustration: MARIE DE MEDICIS WEARING THE MEDICIS COLLAR TO DISPLAY
VENETIAN LACES.]
The chief varieties of the Venetian laces are known as Rose Point, Point
de Neige, Gros Point de Venise (often erroneously attributed to Spain
and called Spanish Point), and Point Plat de Venise. A much rarer
variety is "Venetian point a reseau," which is the flat point worked
round with a Needlepoint ground or mesh, the network following no proper
order but being simply worked round the pattern and following its
curves.
The chief characteristics of Venetian lace are the buttonhole Cordonnet,
fine or thick according to the style of lace; the wonderful diversities
of the fillings worked in buttonhole stitches; the elaborate decoration
of the Cordonnet; and the starry effects of the brides or ties. In the
flat Venetian Point there is no Cordonnet.
These Italian laces were admired and purchased by all the European
countries, and the cities of Venice and Florence made enormous fortunes.
The fashions of the day led to their extensive use, Marie de Medicis
introducing the Medici collar trimmed with Venetian points specially to
display them. At a little later period the collar became more falling
and the heavier "Gros point" was used. Men and women alike wore
lace-trimmed garments to an excessive degree, the collar and cuff
trimmings being composed of wide Venetian lace and the silken scarf worn
across the body being edged with narrower and finer lace.
The principal designs for the Venetian lace of all periods were scrolls
of flowers conventionalised in the Renaissance taste of the time. The
generic name for all laces of the finest period is "Punto tagliato a
foliami." The laces of this time are now almost priceless. They are
genuine works of art, worked slowly and patiently under the clear light
of the Italian skies by women who were naturally artistic and beauty
loving, and who, while working the shining needle and fairy thread in
and out of the intricacies of the design sang the pretty "Lace Songs"
which may be heard at the Burano Lace School even now, although 200 or
300 years old. Many specimens of this exquisite lace are to be found in
the South Kensington Museum, where the flounce given by Mrs. Bolckow at
once explains the whole scheme of Venetian lace-making.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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