Chats on Old Lace and NeedleworkLowes, Emily Leigh
History
Chats on Old Lace and Needlework
Lowes, Emily Leigh
Lace and lace making; Needlework
Colbert, the astute Minister of Louis XIV., became alarmed at the
immense sums of money which went out of the country to purchase the
laces of Venice, and, by means of bribing the best workers of the
Venetian schools, he induced them to settle at L'Onray, near Alencon. In
1665 he had so far succeeded that lace rivalling that of Venice was
being produced. The Venetians became alarmed in their turn (as, indeed,
they had need to be) and issued an edict, ordering the lace-workers to
return forthwith, or, failing this, the nearest relative would be
imprisoned for life, and steps would be taken to have the truant
lace-worker _killed_. If, however, he or she returned, complete
forgiveness would be extended, and work found them _for life_ at
handsome remuneration. History does not tell us the result of this
decree, but it evidently failed to destroy the lace manufacture of
France.
At first the lace manufactured at Alencon received the name of "Point de
France," and was absolutely indistinguishable from that of Venice. Its
magnificence of design, indeed, may be said to have exceeded anything
before attempted. The introduction of tiny figures was attributable to
the overwhelming personality of Louis XIV., and was symbolical of his
magnificent sway and far-reaching influence. In the illustration, page
55, an especially fine specimen of the lace, Madame de Montespan is seen
seated under the crown, two small Indians are on either side; a tree
bearing flags and trophies completes this tribute to the genius of the
lace-makers and the splendour of the Court.
[Illustration: "POINT DE FRANCE."
(_The property of Lady Kenmare._)]
[Illustration: POINT D'ALENCON.
(_Author's Collection._)]
The name "Point de France" is given to all lace made from its
commencement by Colbert's direction until about 1678, when the
lace-workers, perhaps forgetting the traditions of the Venetian school,
developed a style of their own and the work became more distinctly
French, being more delicate, finer in substance, the patterns clearer
and more defined. The importation also of the finer flax thread from
Flanders brought the more exquisite Pillow lace of Brussels to the
notice of the French lace-workers. The French, as a nation, have always
been foremost in seizing upon new ideas and adapting them to their own
artistic requirements. In this instance the result was admirable, and it
gave to the world, not the finest lace, as it was impossible to surpass
the earliest Venetian Point laces, but certainly the next lace in order
of merit, "Point d'Alencon." The chief characteristic of the lace is the
fine, clear ground, the stiff Cordonnet outlining the pattern, and the
exquisite patterns in the "jours" or fillings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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