The lace of Milan is unquestionably the most beautiful of the Pillow laces of Italy. While resembling the plaited lace of Genoa, there is more individuality about it. Much of this fine lace was worked for church vestments and altar cloths. Various heraldic devices are frequently introduced, surrounded with elegant scroll designs, the whole being filled up with woven reseau, the lines of which are by no means regular, but are made to fill in the interstices. Yet another Italian lace is known as _Punto a Groppo, or Macrame_. No doubt this was the earliest form of woven lace, and, indeed, it may claim an origin as early as the first garments worn by mankind. In the earliest remains of antiquity a _fringe_ often decorates the edges of garments, curtains, and floor-covering, and seems to be a natural and fitting finish to what would otherwise be a hard, straight line. In the various Assyrian and Egyptian monuments this is noted again and again. [Illustration: GENOESE LACE. Sixteenth or Seventeenth Century. (_S.K.M. Collection._)] Some of the sixteenth-century pieces which we possess show simply an elaboration of the knotted fringe, while much of the later work is exceptionally fine. The work is so well known, owing to its revival during the last thirty years in a coarse form, that it needs little description. Its use, even at its best period, was confined to household use, for which purpose it seems particularly adapted. [Illustration: MILANESE LACE. (_Author's Collection._)] V THE LACES OF FRANCE [Illustration: "CUT-WORKE."] [Illustration: LACIS.] [Illustration: OLD ITALIAN AND FRENCH CUT AND DRAWN WORK AND "LACIS." (_Author's Collection._)] V THE LACES OF FRANCE _The Needlepoint Laces of France_ Catherine de Medici's collection of "Lacis"--Establishment of lace-making by Colbert--"Point de France"--"Point d'Alencon"--"Point d'Argentan"--Modern reproduction of these at Burano, Italy. France in the sixteenth century, as always, led the van of fashion. Lace appears to have been extensively used long before its apotheosis at the Court of Louis le Grand, otherwise Louis XIV. Catherine de Medici patronised the manufacture of "_Lacis_," which was merely darned netting, more or less fine. At this time "Lacis" and "Cut-worke" were practically all that was known or used. Bed-hangings, curtains, and furniture-coverings were covered with alternate squares of lacis and cutwork. Afterwards the Reticella laces of Italy were imported and had an immense vogue, but it was not until the artistically glorious time of Louis XIV. that an attempt was made to encourage a manufacture of French laces.