Chats on Old Lace and NeedleworkLowes, Emily Leigh
History
Chats on Old Lace and Needlework
Lowes, Emily Leigh
Lace and lace making; Needlework
Magnificent laces are still made at Brussels, but almost wholly on a
machine-made ground, the workers and merchants apparently finding the
old hand-made ground unprofitable. The machine-made ground is cheap, and
often of mixed flax and cotton instead of being of purely Flanders flax
thread, as in the old days. Both quality and colour suffer from this
admixture, the lace washing badly and wearing worse.
The most common lace is the Point Applique, in which the sprays, groups,
and borders on the design are made separately by hand on the pillow, and
are afterwards applied by tiny stitchings to the machine-made net. Some
qualities are better than others. In the better class the sprays are
appliqued to the net, which is then cut away and the interstices of the
design filled in with hand-made modes and brides, making a very pretty
and showy lace. The best lace made in Brussels now is
_Point Gaze_,
in which the finest modern lace is produced. Its chief characteristics
are its superb designs, repeating many of the fine Renaissance patterns,
its clear ground, and its use of shading in leaves and flowers, which,
while it adds much to the sumptuous effect, is possibly too
naturalistic. This lace is a mixture of hand and machine lace, the
ground being of the best machine net, the flowers and sprays frequently
needle made, the various fillings being composed of a variety of
designs, and the shading often being produced in the needle-darning as
in modern Ghent and Limerick. Point de Gaze is costly, but it has the
reputation of appearing "worth its money" to which few other laces of
the present day can aspire.
Other lace-making towns in Belgium and Flanders are--
_Ghent_,
which produces a fine machine-made net, worked and embroidered in exact
imitation of the earliest Limerick lace. So _real_ is this imitation
that a fine flounce of 4 yds. 32 in. wide was sold at a London
auction-room a few months ago, as "real old Limerick," for L60!
Ghent executes vast quantities of hand-made imitations of Valenciennes,
a good and durable lace, but much more expensive than the machine-made
varieties which flood the shops as "real Val."
[Illustration: MECHLIN LAPPET.
Eighteenth Century.
(_S.K.M. Collection._)]
Perhaps the only other lace worth mentioning in smaller and later
varieties is that known as "Duchesse point" or "Bruges," which while
being a showy, decorative, and cheap lace, is anything but satisfactory
either in design, manufacture, or wear. It is largely composed of
cotton, is heavy and cumbrous in design, and after washing becomes thick
and clumsy. It is pillow-made, the flowers being made on the cushion and
afterwards united by coarse and few brides.
Almost equal in favour with old Brussels lace was
MECHLIN,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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