One of the most serious questions for China to-day is that of finance,
and I was told by a reliable business man that the unification of the
coinage would have been settled long ago, but for the fierce opposition
of the banking community, who make unheard-of profits by the present
system. It is extremely tiresome and injurious to trade, and adds greatly
to the difficulty of travelling.
As soon as we had crossed the frontier the scenery changed and became
grander. The railway passes through malarious districts, and its
construction was impeded (at one time even entirely suspended) on account
of the number of deaths which took place among the workmen. It is a
narrow-gauge single line, and there are so frequently obstructions and
accidents that the train only runs by daylight; it takes therefore three
days to accomplish the journey; but it is so interesting that one is glad
to go slowly. The stations on the line are few, and the only important
town is Mongtsze, a big trading centre. The province is considered one of
great natural wealth and beauty, and I was glad to be in it once more,
having already traversed it from north-east to west (a distance of over
a thousand miles) on foot or carried in a chair. On the second day we
passed through glorious wooded gorges, gradually rising to a height of
two thousand seven hundred feet. The hill-sides were terraced up to the
very summits in places, and despite the sparse population the land was
well cultivated wherever possible. We reached the town of Amichow soon
after five o’clock, and found a decent little French hotel. Strolling
out to watch the glorious sunset, we came to a barracks, where men were
drilling in orthodox German style and singing a monotonous sort of chant.
Next morning when we came to pay our seven-dollar bill with the Yünnanese
notes we had bought at Haiphong, we had an unusual experience with regard
to the exchange, for we found that it only meant three Yünnanese dollars.
While I attended to this, my niece went ahead to secure the window
seats, for you see very little otherwise. There were other travellers
who had secured them the previous day, and we knew the scenery would be
magnificent. The line is really a remarkable one, running in and out of
the rock, crossing rivers far below, and wholly unlike the tame railway
lines at home. One part was singularly beautiful as we emerged from a
tunnel at a high level; we saw a lovely jade-coloured lake spread below
us, melting away into the far distance. As we approached the capital,
Yünnanfu, we left the mountains behind and passed through well-cultivated
lowlands, already clad in shining green, or reflecting the blue sky in
watery ricefields. We were not sorry, however, to say good-bye to the
railway for many weeks to come. Friends had arranged for us to stay at a
comfortable French hotel, the _Terminus_, outside the city wall and with
a fine view across the fields to distant hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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