We generally started the day in a damp mist, and were happy when it
cleared away, even though there was no sunshine. We scanned the hedges
for roses, and felt quite aggrieved if we failed to find fresh varieties
every single day. A lovely blush rose filled us with delight, but pink
moss-roses were only seen on one occasion. We decided that nowhere else
could a greater variety of roses be found: we counted twenty-three
varieties before we left the province, and felt sure we should have found
many more had we stayed longer, for they were hardly in full bloom by the
end of April. One day I picked up a broken branch on the road, thrown
away by some passer-by no doubt because it had no blossoms on it, but
the bright green leaves were a lovely violet on the under side, and I
searched in vain to find a bush of it growing, in order to see what the
flowers were like.
Then, too, the birds were reminiscent of home—magpies, larks,
woodpeckers, wagtails, and even the aggravating cuckoo. But there was
one elusive little fellow, known to all dwellers in Kweichow, though
no one could tell me his name: he had a long shrill note with a short
tut-tut-tut at the end. We both watched for him daily, as he seemed to
haunt our path continually, but never could we catch a sight of him, so
dexterously did he hide himself. Occasionally we thought we saw him, but
it was so momentary a glimpse that we were never sure; the bird we saw
looked about the size and shape and colour of a linnet.
The fourth day in Kweichow we came to a splendid three-arch bridge
in a fertile valley, and spent the night in a very different village
from most—Kuan Tzu Yao. A number of fine new houses were in course of
construction, built largely of stone; amongst others, a post office next
door to our inn. The postal system in China is really wonderful, even
in this backward province, and we had a most charming surprise at the
first post town we entered. Our interpreter went to the post office,
and was surprised at being asked if he were travelling with English
ladies. On admitting this, he was asked to inform us that if we were in
need of money we could draw as much as was necessary at any office we
came to, by order of the postal commissioner at Kwei Yang. The reason
for this delightful arrangement was that the English Commissioner at
Taiyuanfu, whose advice we had asked about transmitting money, said he
would write to his Chinese colleague and ask him to help us if we got
into difficulties, because of the prevalent highway robberies. This
gentleman was ill at the time the letter reached him, but he telegraphed
to Taiyuanfu as soon as he was fit, that he would do what he could—and
this was his splendid way of meeting the difficulty. No finer testimony
could be wanted of the way the Chinese trust our people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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