The postal system is a fine piece of organization: it reaches to the
utmost bounds of the empire, and although the mails are mainly carried
by runners on foot, they travel very rapidly. The stages are not long,
and there is no delay when the bags are handed from one runner to the
next. For instance, we were told that on this particular road, what we
did in seventeen days the mails would do in four, and we did an average
of eighteen miles a day. We had postal maps given us of the provinces we
were going to visit. On them are marked all the postal stations, with
the distances from one to another; the line of route; the various grades
of offices; the limit of the district; daily or bi-daily day and night
service; daily, bi-daily or tri-daily service; less frequent ones; postal
connexion by boat; telegraphic connexion; rural box offices, etc. The
names of the main towns are in both Chinese and English, the others only
in Chinese. On the whole, letters travel wonderfully safely. The old
postal system was quite hopeless, and in the interior the missionaries
used to organize their own. Even Peking used to be closed to the rest
of the world yearly for several months. I remember six months when we
had no letters from my sister in Shansi, due to a misunderstanding at a
transmitting station, and there was no telegraphic communication in those
days. Now the old Chinese system has practically died out.
We had another proof of the thoughtfulness of the Chinese commissioner
later. Having heard from one of the missionaries that we were going
into the Miao country before coming to the capital, he sent up all our
letters, a tremendous boon after being weeks without any. The postal
service is under international control, having been originated in 1896
and built up by Sir Robert Hart in connexion with the customs: in each
province there is a commissioner; nearly all are Europeans.
As we got further into the province the vegetation grew more and more
luxuriant. The banks were carpeted with lycopodium and primula and the
hedges were full of roses, white and yellow jasmine, hawthorn, clematis
montana, Akebia lobata—a very curious creeper with wine-coloured blossom,
both male and female. The brilliant yellow-blossomed cassia forms a
most impenetrable hedge, with upstanding thorns, like nails, all along
its tough stems. We tied water jars into our chairs, so as to keep
the flowers fresh, and by the end of the day the chairs were perfect
bowers, our men vying with one another to get us the choicest blossoms.
Perhaps the most beautiful of any was the large white, sweet-scented
rhododendron, the Hymenocallis. This is rare; we only found it once.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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