Pau--The English in Pau--English and Russians--The View of the Pyrenees--The Castle--The Statue of Henri Quatre--His Birth--A Vision of his Life--Rochelle--St. Bartholomew--Ivry--Henri and Sully--Henri and Gabrielle--Henri and Henriette d'Entragues--Ravaillac 127-136 CHAPTER VIII. The Val d'Ossau--The Vin de Jurancon--Pyrenean Cottages--The Bernais Peasants--The Devil learning Basque--The Wolves of the Pyrenees--The Bears of the Pyrenees--The Dogs of the Pyrenees--An Auberge in the Pyrenees--Omens and Superstitions in the Pyrenees--The Songs of the Pyrenees 137-155 CHAPTER IX. Wet Weather in the Pyrenees--Eaux Chaudes out of Season, and in the Rain--Plucking the Indian Corn at the Auberge at Laruns--The Legend of the Wehrwolf, and the Baron who was changed into a Bear 156-166 CHAPTER X. The Solitary Big Hotel--The Knitters of the Pyrenees--The Weavers of the Pyrenees--Pigeon-catching in the Pyrenees--The Giant of the Pyrenean Dogs--Murray and _Commis Voyageurs_--The Eastern Pyrenees--The Legend of Orthon 167-186 CHAPTER XI. Languedoc--The "Austere South"--Beziers and the Albigenses--The Fountain of the Greve--The Bishop and his Flock--The Canal du Midi--The Mistral--Rural Billiard-playing 187-199 CHAPTER XII. Travelling by the Canal du Midi--Travelling French People--The Salt Harvest--Equestrian Thrashing Machines--Cette--The Mediterranean--The "Made" Wines--The Priest on Wines--_La Cuisine Française_ 200-218 CHAPTER XIII. The Olive-gathering--A Night with the Mosquitoes--Aigues-Mortes--The Fever in Aigues-Mortes--My _Cicerone_ in Aigues-Mortes--The Pickled Burgundians--Reboul's Poetry--The Lighthouse of Aigues-Mortes 219-235 CHAPTER XIV. Fen Landscape--Tavern Allegories--Roman Remains--Roman Architecture--Roman Theatricals--The Maison Carrée--Greek Architecture--Catholic and Protestant--The Weaver's _Cabane_--Protestant and Catholic 236-255 CHAPTER THE LAST. Backward French Agriculture--French Rural Society--The Small Property System--French "Encumbered Estates" 256-264 [Illustration] CLARET AND OLIVES. CHAPTER I. THE DILIGENCE--OLD GUIENNE AND THE ENGLISH IN FRANCE--BORDEAUX AND A SUBURBAN VINTAGING. "_Voila la voila! La ville de Bordeaux!_"