Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England — John Shaqi
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Dead Crags= (C. sh. 56) are lofty but disappointing rocks on the north
side of Skiddaw. There is perhaps 500 ft. of steep crumbly rock,
something like _Hobcarton_.
=Deep Gill.=--The name is not infrequent; for example, there is one on
the south side of _Great Gable_, east of the _Napes_, but now it is
always called _Hell Gate_. The Deep Gill is on _Scafell_, and falls into
the _Lord's Rake_. The first mention of it was made in August 1869 by
Mr. T.L. Murray Browne, who wrote in the Visitors' Book at Wastdale
Head: 'The attention of mountaineers is called to a rock on Scafell on
the right (looking down) of a remarkable gill which cleaves the rocks of
Scafell and descends into Lingmell Gill. It looks stiff.' The rock
alluded to is the _Scafell Pillar_ and the gill is _Deep Gill_. It is
well described by Mr. Slingsby in the _Alpine Journal_, vol. xiii. p.
93: 'After a couple of hundred steps had been cut in the snow in Lord's
Rake and at the bottom of Deep Gill, which joins the former at right
angles, we reached the first block--a large rock perhaps 15 ft.
square--which overhangs the gill, and so forms a cave. Below the rock
the snow was moulded into most fantastic shapes by occasional
water-drips from above. At the right hand of the big rock a few small
stones are jammed fast between it and the side of the ravine, and they
afford the only route up above the rock. These stones can be reached
from the back of the little cave, and occasionally from the snow direct.
Hastings--who is a very powerful fellow and a brilliant climber--and I
got on the stones, as we did last year. He then stood on my shoulder,
and, by the aid of long arms and being steadied by me, he reached a tiny
ledge and drew himself up. Mason and I found it no child's play to
follow him with the rope. Some two hundred more steps in hard snow
brought us to the only place where we could attack the second block.
Here three fallen rocks stop the way, and on the left hand is the
well-nigh ledgeless cliff which terminates far away overhead in the Sca
Fell Pinnacle, or Sca Fell Pillar. On the right a high perpendicular
wall effectually cuts off the gill from the terraces of Lord's Rake. On
the left hand of the gill a small tongue of rock, very steep, juts out
perhaps 40 ft. down the gully from the fallen block nearest to the
Pinnacle wall, and forms a small crack, and this crack is the only way
upward. From a mountaineer's point of view the stratification of the
rocks here is all wrong. The crack ends in a chimney about 20 ft. high,
between the wall and a smoothly polished boss of rock. Hastings, still
leading, found the crack to be difficult, but climbed it in a most
masterly way. All loose stones, tufts of grass and moss, had to be
thrown down, and, in the absence of hand and foot hold, the knees,
elbows, thighs, and other parts of the body had to do the holding on,
whilst, caterpillar-like, we drew ourselves upward bit by bit. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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