Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
chimney is best climbed by leaning against the Pinnacle wall with one's
back and elbows, and, at the same time, by walking with the feet
fly-like up the boss opposite. From the top of the boss a narrow sloping
traverse, perhaps 12 ft. long, leads into the trough of the gill. With a
rope this is an easy run; without one it would not be nice. A stone
thrown down from here falls over both blocks and rolls down the snow out
of the mouth of Lord's Rake on to the screes far away below. The crack,
chimney, and traverse, short distance though it is, took us about an
hour to pass. The climb from Deep Gill to the gap from which the
Pinnacle is ascended is a very good one, which two men can do much
better than one. The Pinnacle itself from the gap is perhaps 25 ft.
high, and is really a first-rate little climb, where the hands and the
body have to do the bulk of the work.'
[Illustration: DEEP GILL, SCAFELL
(The Lower Pitch)]
The date of Mr. Slingsby's attempt was March 2, 1885, and that of his
successful ascent March 28, 1886: but as early as 1882 this climb had
been made, piecemeal, by the present writer, who, however, never, so far
as he can remember, blended the different items into a continuous climb
until the summer of 1884, when he descended the whole length of the
gill in company with Mr. Chr. Cookson, of C.C.C., Oxford. A yet
earlier descent of the gill had been made at Easter 1882 by Messrs.
Arnold Mumm and J.E. King, of the same college, who found such a
phenomenal depth of snow that the obstacles were buried, and they were
able to walk from end to end without using their hands. The same thing
happened again in January 1887, when Messrs. Creak and Robinson were
able to walk up over both pitches without having even to cut a step.
The lower pitch may also be passed by using a recess resembling one half
of a funnel in the red rock of the vertical south wall of the gill. The
worst part of this is where you leave the funnel and begin to coast
round in order to re-enter the gill. The space comprised between the two
pitches can be entered very easily by passing round the foot of the
_Scafell Pillar_, or with much more difficulty down the vertical south
wall. The upper pitch may be passed in two ways, besides the incline.
One is by means of a narrow side gully, the upper stage of which is most
easily passed by following the ridge which divides it from the main
gill. The third way is the most direct and the most difficult, lying
between the incline and the great block. Mr. Owen Jones seems to have
invented it in the year 1892, and took up a party by it on that occasion
with the assistance of a good deal of snow, and another party in the
month of August 1893, when there was no snow at all. There is no more
fashionable winter climb than _Deep Gill_, and about Christmas time the
clink of the axe echoes among its crags from dawn to dusk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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