Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
History
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
Ferris, a native of New York who later resided in Texas, made his first
western journey with the American Fur Company in 1830. Hardly a typical
mountain man, he kept a journal of his travels entitled “Life in the
Rocky Mountains,” which appeared serially in 1842 and 1843 in the
Western Literary Messenger, an obscure weekly published in Buffalo, New
York. The piece containing an account of his visit to the geyser region
in 1834 appeared on July 13, 1842, attracted no special attention at the
time except that of the editors of the Nauvoo, Illinois, Wasp, who ran
it without credit in their edition of August 13, 1842. Olin D. Wheeler
discovered it and republished it in 1901. Its historical importance as
the first adequate description of the geysers by an eyewitness (and the
second published description of any portion of Yellowstone Park) was
appreciated by Chittenden, but his identity and the magnificent scope of
his journal was not fully understood until its republication with
extensive editorial notes by Dr. Paul C. Phillips in 1940. It was in May
1834, while his brigade was traveling through Idaho country en route to
the rendezvous on Ham’s Fork of the Green, that Ferris and two Indian
companions made a hurried side trip, going almost due east forty miles.
His object was to verify the rumors concerning “remarkable boiling
spring on the sources of the Madison” which he had heard at the
rendezvous of 1833. He soon realized that “the half was not told me.” A
fragment of his vivid description follows:
From the surface of a rocky plain or table, burst forth columns of
water, of various dimensions, projected high in the air, accompanied
by loud explosions, and sulphurous vapors, which were highly
disagreeable to the smell. The rock from which these springs burst
forth, was calcareous, and probably extends some distance from them,
beneath the soil. The largest of these wonderful fountains, projects a
column of boiling water several feet in diameter, to the height of
more than one hundred and fifty feet—in my opinion; but the party of
Alvarez, who discovered it, persist in declaring that it could not be
less than four times that distance in height—accompanied with a
tremendous noise. These explosions and discharges occur at intervals
of about two hours.
[Illustration: Baling beaver hides inside stockade.]
[Illustration: Section of “Map of the Northwest Fur Country,” 1836, by
Warren A. Ferris. From _Life in the Rocky Mountains_, Old West
Publishing Company, Denver, 1940.]
After this adventure, he returned to Henry’s Fork and thence to Pierre’s
Hole, crossing Teton Pass on May 24. In the Hoback Canyon he found
evidence that a party under Drips had preceded him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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