Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
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Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
Less well known than the vivid description by Ferris but even more
remarkable is his “Map of the Northwest Fur Country,” drawn in 1836.
Lying in the family trunk for over a century, unknown to geographers and
historians, it was made available in 1940 for publication with the
journals. This is, to quote Dr. Phillips, “the most detailed and
accurate of all the early maps of the region,” far superior in accuracy
to the famous maps by Bonneville, Parker, John C. Fremont, and others
which were published contemporaneously. In addition to mountain chains,
valleys, and trails, it locates such fascinating details as “Yellow
stone L.,” “Boiling water,” and “Volcanoes” near the south shore of the
lake and “spouting fountains” within the “Burnt Hole” at the head of
Madison River, indicating the present West Thumb thermal area and the
Upper Geyser Basin on Firehole River, respectively. The context of the
journal, together with the evidence of the map, suggests that Ferris
beheld and described Old Faithful, the geyser which has become the
symbol of Yellowstone National Park.
In August of 1834 a party of fifty-five men in Bonneville’s employ led
by Joseph H. Walker ascended Pacific Creek from Jackson’s Hole and after
some debate “agreed to move down onto Wind River,” instead of descending
the Yellowstone. Thus Walker, who had previously discovered Yosemite
Valley, and Zenas Leonard, the journalist of the expedition, missed the
big exploring opportunity which Ferris had grasped.
The quaint nomenclature bestowed on certain locales and landmarks by the
mountain trappers offer more than one clue to their shadowy passage. The
Gardner River Valley at Swan Lake Flats, between Mammoth Hot Springs and
Obsidian Cliff, seems to be the most likely locale of the beaver-rich
“Gardner’s Hole” frequented by the mountain men, probably named for
Johnson Gardner, a freelance trapper who must have frequented those
parts at least as early as 1834, possibly as early as 1830 as Chittenden
suggests. His name appears in the Fort Union account books of 1832,
which include an agreement to purchase his stock of beaver skins then
cached on Yellowstone River. In 1834 he fell in with Prince Maximilian
of Wied on the Lower Missouri, revealing to that distinguished traveler
that “he was on his return from hunting beavers on the Upper
Yelowstone.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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