Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
History
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
Early in 1839, Russell hunted mountain sheep and trapped beaver along
the Snake River below Jackson’s Hole, returning to Fort Hall in June.
Making up a party of four for the purpose of trapping in the Yellowstone
and Wind River Mountains, he spent the Fourth of July at the outlet of
Jackson Lake, near present Moran, then followed the Snake River
northward to Lewis Lake and Shoshone Lake. The Shoshone Geyser Basin is
described by Russell in meticulous detail, including the rhythmic “Hour
Spring” which resembles present Union Geyser. From here they crossed
over to Hayden Valley via the Midway Geyser Basin, there noting a
“boiling lake” of deep indigo blue, about three hundred feet in
diameter, probably the present Grand Prismatic Spring. After an extended
camp at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake they went east to the head of
Clark’s Fork, thence back to the Yellowstone at the ford near Tower
Falls, thence to Gardner’s Hole and back to the lake outlet. En route
they saw disturbing evidence of “a village of 300 or 400 lodges of
Blackfeet” that had only recently been evacuated. In their camp on
Pelican Creek, just east of the present Fishing Bridge campground, they
were suddenly assailed by a horde of “70 or 80” Blackfeet “who rent the
air with their horrid yells” and inflicted severe arrow wounds on
Russell and one other. They fought off the Indians with their rifles,
but suffered great pain and hardship in making their way back to Fort
Hall via West Thumb, Snake River, Berry Creek and Conant Pass at the
north end of the Teton Range. This was Russell’s final sorrowful exit
from Wonderland.
Two slim and shaky clues to other Yellowstone expeditions in the late
1830’s are available. In his journal of 1839, while sojourning in the
Utah country, apprentice trapper E. Willard Smith reports: “The country
around the headwaters of the Yellowstone, a tributary of the Missouri,
abounds in natural curiosities. There are volcanoes, volcanic
productions and carbonated springs. Mr. Vasquez told me that he went to
the top of one of these volcanoes, the crater of which was filled with
pure water, forming quite a large lake.” In his Life in the Far West
(1849), a fictionalized account of the mountain men, with whom he had
personally consorted in 1846, Lieutenant Ruxton tells how, on one
occasion, Old Bill Williams, “tough as the parfleche soles of his
moccasins,” led seven of his hardy associates into a little-known
region, beckoned thence by “a lofty peak” which fits the description of
the Grand Tetons, entering “the valley lying about the lakes now called
Eustis and Biddle, in which are many thermal and mineral springs, well
known to the trappers by the name of Soda, Beer, and Brimstone Springs,
and regarded by them with no little awe and curiosity, as being the
breathing places of his Satanic majesty.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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