Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
History
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
The year 1840 can be said to mark the formal demise of the Rocky
Mountain fur trade, for in that year was held the fifteenth and last of
these great conclaves of the wilderness, the trapper’s rendezvous on
Horse Creek of the Green River. It also marks the end of an epoch in the
history of Jackson’s Hole. The main chronicler of this fateful year was
the Belgian, Pierre-Jean De Smet, a Jesuit priest who accompanied the
American Fur Company’s last expedition to the mountains so that he might
survey the prospects for a Catholic mission among the Flathead Indians.
This was the beginning of a series of epic pilgrimages to the Far West
which were to make him one of the dominant figures in American frontier
history. Andrew Drips headed the supply train. Also present were several
Protestant missionaries and “the first avowed Oregon emigrant,” Joel P.
Walker, and his wife and five children. On April 30, the caravan left
Westport, Missouri, and, after two months of traveling over the Great
Plains in the midst of vast buffalo herds, it reached its destination.
Writes Father De Smet:
On the 30th [June] I came to the rendezvous, where a band of
Flatheads, who had been notified of my coming, were already waiting
for me.... On the 4th of July, I resumed my travels, with my
Flatheads; ten brave Canadians also chose to accompany me....
Three days we ascended Green river, and on the 8th we crossed it,
heading for an elevated plain which separates the waters of the
Colorado from those of the Columbia.... On leaving this plain, we
descended several thousand feet by a trail and arrived in Jackson’s
Hole [Jackson’s Little Hole].... Thence we passed into a narrow and
extremely dangerous defile, which was at the same time picturesque and
sublime....
On the 10th, after crossing the lofty mountain, we arrived upon the
banks of Henry’s Fork [Snake River], one of the principal tributaries
of Snake [Columbia] river. The mass of snow melted during the July
heat had swollen this torrent to a prodigious height. Its roaring
waters rushed furiously down and whitened with their foam the great
blocks of granite which vainly disputed the passage with them. The
sight intimidated neither our Indians nor our Canadians; accustomed to
perils of this sort, they rushed into the torrent on horseback and
swam it. I dared not venture to do likewise. To get me over, they made
a kind of sack of my skin tent; then they put all my things in and set
me on top of it. The three Flatheads who had jumped in to guide my
frail bark by swimming, told me, laughing, not to be afraid, that I
was on an excellent boat. And in fact this machine floated on the
water like a majestic swan; and in less than ten minutes I found
myself on the other bank, where we encamped for the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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