Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
Epiphany, or the old English Twelfth-Night, has retained in the East
a significance that it has lost in the West. The day is supposed to
commemorate the baptism of Christ in the Jordan. Hence it is the day of
the blessing of waters, whether of springs, wells, reservoirs, rivers, or
the sea. Holy water plays a particular rôle in the Greek Church—although
the Roman custom of moistening the fingers with it, before making the
sign of the cross on entering a church, is not followed. On the first
of every month except January a ceremony called the Little Blessing
takes place in the churches, when water is blessed; and this ceremony
may be repeated by request in private houses. In January the Little
Blessing takes place on Epiphany eve, the fifth. But on Epiphany itself,
as early in the morning as local custom may dictate, takes place the
Great Blessing. It is performed in the middle of the church, on a dais
decorated with garlands of bay, and the important feature of the long
ceremony is the dipping of a cross into a silver basin of water. The
water is carefully kept in bottles throughout the next year and used
as occasion may require. It is sometimes administered, for instance,
to those who are not thought fit to take the full communion. The
outdoor ceremony which follows this one is extremely picturesque. In
Constantinople it may be seen in any of the numerous Greek waterside
communities—by those who care to get up early enough of a January
morning. One of the best places is Arnaout-kyöi, a large Greek village on
the European shore of the Bosphorus, where the ceremony is obligingly
postponed till ten or eleven o’clock. At the conclusion of the service
in the church a procession, headed by clergy in gala vestments and
accompanied by candles, incense, banners, and lanterns on staves of the
sort one sees in Italy, marches to the waterside. There it is added
to by shivering mortals in bathing trunks. They behave in a highly
unecclesiastical manner in their anxiety to get the most advantageous
post on the quay. The banners and lanterns make a screen of colour on
either side of the priests, incense rises, choristers chant, a bishop
in brocade and cloth of gold, with a domed gilt mitre, holds up a small
cross; he makes the holy sign with it, and tosses it into the Bosphorus.
There is a terrific splash as the rivals for its recovery dive after it.
In days gone by there used to be fights no less terrific in the water
over the precious object. The last time I saw the ceremony, however,
there was nothing of the kind. The cross was even made of wood, so that
there was no trouble in finding it. The first man who reached it piously
put it to his lips and allowed the fellow nearest him to do the same.
Then the half dozen of them paddled back to shore and hurried off to get
warm. The finder of the cross is a lucky man in this world and the world
to come. He goes from house to house with the holy emblem he has rescued
from the deep, and people give him tips.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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