Constantinople old and newDwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
History
Constantinople old and new
Dwight, H. G. (Harrison Griswold)
Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- History
The next great feast is that of the Assumption, which is preceded by a
fortnight’s fast. Those who would see its panegyric celebrated with due
circumstance should row on the 28th of August to Yeni-kyöi and admire
the plane-shaded avenue of that fashionable village, decorated in honour
of the occasion and musical with mastic glasses and other instruments
of sound. A greater _panayíri_, however, takes place a month later in
the pleasant meadows of Gyök Sou, known to Europe as the Sweet Waters of
Asia. Two feasts indeed, the Nativity of the Virgin and the Exaltation
of the Cross (September 8/21 and 14/27), then combine to make a week
of rejoicing. There is nothing to be seen at Gyök Sou that may not be
seen at other fêtes of the same kind. I do recollect, though, a dance of
Anatolian peasants in a ring, who held each other first by the little
finger, then by the hand, then by the elbow, and lastly by the shoulder.
And the amphoræ of the local pottery works in which people carry away
their holy water give the rites of the _áyazma_ a classic air. But this
_panayíri_ has an ampler setting than the others, in its green river
valley dotted with great trees, and it enjoys an added importance because
it is to all practical purposes the last of the season. No one can count
on being able to make merry out-of-doors on St. Demetrius’s Day (October
26 / November 8). St. Demetrius is as interesting a personality as St.
George. He also is an heir of divinity, for on him, curiously enough,
have devolved the responsibilities of the goddess Demeter. He is the
patron of husbandmen, who discharge labourers and lease fields on his
day. Among working people his is a favourite season for matrimony. I know
not how it is that some sailors will not go to sea after _Aï Thimítri_,
until the waters have been blessed at Epiphany. Perhaps it is that he
marks for Greeks and Turks alike the beginning of winter, being known to
the latter as Kassîm. This division of the seasons is clearly connected
with the Pelasgian myth of Demeter.
The feast of her successor I have never found particularly interesting,
though I must say I have seen it only at Kourou Cheshmeh. Kourou
Cheshmeh, or Dry Fountain, as the Turks call it, is where Medea, during
her somewhat stormy honeymoon in the Argo, planted a laurel, and where a
very different notability of a later day, St. Daniel the Stylite, stood
for many years on a pillar. No sign of laurel or pillar are there to-day,
or of the famous Byzantine church of the Archangel Michael, which existed
somewhere in the vicinity and which Sultan Mehmed II pulled down to build
into Cut-Throat Castle. But there is a remnant of antiquity in Kourou
Cheshmeh which goes very well with feasts of Demeter. This is an old
altar, half buried in the earth near the mosque of the village, festooned
about with garlands between battered rams’ heads—a curiously vivid symbol
of the contrasts and survivals that are so much of the interest of
Constantinople.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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