His _cena Trimalchionis_, Trimalchio's dinner, is the sole surviving
piece from the pen of a Roman contemporary, giving detailed
information on our subject. It is, too, the work of a great writer
moving in the best circles, and, therefore, so much more desirable as
an expert. Petronius deserves to be quoted in full but his work is too
well-known, and our space too short. However, right here we wish to
warn the student to bear in mind in perusing Petronius that this
writer, in his _cena_, is not depicting a meal but that he is
satirizing a man--that makes all the difference in the world as far
as we are concerned. Petronius' _cena_ is plainly an exaggeration, but
even from its distorted contours the student may recognize the true
lines of an ancient meal.
There is, not so well-known a beautiful picture of an Athenian dinner
party which must not be overlooked, for it contains a wealth of
information. Although Greek, we learn from it much of the Roman
conditions. Anacharsis' description of a banquet at Athens, dating
back to the fourth century B.C. about the time when the Periclean
régime flourished, is worth your perusal. A particularly good version
of this tale is rendered by Baron Vaerst in his book "Gastrosophie,"
Leipzig, 1854, who has based his version on the original translation
from the Greek, entitled, _Voyage du jeune Anacharsis en Grèce vers le
milieu du quatrième siècle avant l'ère vulgaire par J. J. Barthélemy_,
Paris, 1824. Vaerst has amplified the excerpts from the young
traveler's observations by quotations from other ancient Greek writers
upon the subject, thus giving us a most beautiful and authentic ideal
description of Greek table manners and habits when Athens had reached
the height in culture, refinement and political greatness.
Anacharsis was not a Hellene but a Scythian visitor. By his own
admission he is no authority on Grecian cookery, but as a reporter he
excels.
This truly Hellenic discussion of the art of eating and living at the
table of the cultured Athenians is the most profound discourse we know
of, ancient or modern, on eating. The wisdom revealed in this tale is
lasting, and, like Greek marble, consummate in external beauty and
inner worth.
We thus possess the testimony of two contemporary writers which
together with the book of Apicius and with what we learn from
Athenaeus should give a fair picture of ancient eating and cookery.
Apicius is our most substantial witness.
Unfortunately, this source has not been spared by meddlesome men, and
it has not reached us in its pristine condition. As a matter of fact,
Apicius has been badly mauled throughout the centuries. This book has
always attracted attention, never has it met with indifference. In the
middle ages it became the object of intensive study, interpretation,
controversy--in short it has attracted interest that has lasted into
modern times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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