When, with the advent of the dark ages, it ceased to be a practical
cookery book, it became a treasure cherished by the few who preserved
the classical literature, and after the invention of printing it
became the object of curiosity, even mystery. Some interpreters waxed
enthusiastic over it, others who failed to understand it, condemned it
as hopeless and worthless.
The pages of our Apiciana plainly show the lasting interest in our
ancient book, particularly ever since its presence became a matter of
common knowledge during the first century of printing.
The Apicius book is the most ancient of European cookery books.
However, Platina's work, _de honesta uolvptate_, is the first cookery
book to appear in print. Platina, in 1474, was more up-to-date. His
book had a larger circulation. But its vogue stopped after a century
while Apicius marched on through centuries to come, tantalizing the
scholars, amusing the curious gourmets if not educated cooks to the
present day.
APICIUS, THE MAN
Who was Apicius? This is the surname of several renowned gastronomers
of old Rome. There are many references and anecdotes in ancient
literature to men bearing this name. Two Apicii have definitely been
accounted for. The older one, Marcus A. lived at the time of Sulla
about 100 B.C. The man we are most interested in, M. Gabius Apicius,
lived under Augustus and Tiberius, 80 B.C. to A.D. 40. However, both
these men had a reputation for their good table.
ATHENAEUS ON APICIUS
It is worth noting that the well-read Athenaeus, conversant with most
authors of Antiquity makes no mention of the Apicius book. This
collection of recipes, then, was not in general circulation during
Athenaei time (beginning of the third century of our era), that,
maybe, it was kept a secret by some Roman cooks. On the other hand it
is possible that the Apicius book did not exist during the time of
Athenaeus in the form handed down to us and that the monographs on
various departments of cookery (most of them of Greek origin, works of
which indeed Athenaeus speaks) were collected after the first quarter
of the third century and were adorned with the name of Apicius merely
because his fame as a gourmet had endured.
What Athenaeus knows about Apicius (one of three known famous eaters
bearing that name) is the following:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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