With due justice to the Roman people may we be permitted to say that
proverbial excesses were exceedingly rare occurrences. The follies and
the vices of a Nero, a boy Heliogabalus, a Pollio, a Vitellius and a
few other notorious wasters are spread sporadically over a period of
at least eight hundred years. Between these cases of gastronomic
insanity lie wellnigh a thousand years of everyday grind and drudgery
of the Roman people. The bulk was miserably fed as compared with
modern standards of living. Only a few patricians could afford "high
living." Since a prosperous bourgeoisie (usually the economic and
gastronomic background of any nation) was practically unknown in Rome,
where the so-called middle classes were in reality poor, shiftless and
floating freedmen, it is evident that the bulk of the population
because of the empire's unsettled economic conditions, its extensive
system of slavery (precluding all successful practice of trades by
freemen), the continuous military operations, the haphazard financial
system, was forced to live niggardly. The contrast between the middle
classes and the upper classes seemed very cruel. This condition may
account for the many outcries against the "extravagances" of the few
privileged ones who could afford decent food and for the exaggerated
stories about their table found in the literature of the time.
The seemingly outlandish methods of Apician food preparation become
plain and clear in the light of social evolution. "Evolution" is
perhaps not the right word to convey our idea of social perpetual
motion.
Apicius used practically all the cooking utensils in use today. He
only lacked gas, electricity and artificial refrigeration, modern
achievements while useful in the kitchen and indispensable in
wholesale production and for labor saving, that have no bearing on
purely gastronomical problems. There is only one difference between
the cooking utensils of yore and the modern products: the old ones are
hand-made, more individualistic, more beautiful, more artistic than
our machine-made varieties.
Despite his strangeness and remoteness, Apicius is not dead by any
means. We have but to inspect (as Gollmer has pointed out) the table
of the Southern Europeans to find Apician traditions alive. In the
Northern countries, too, are found his traces. To think that Apicius
should have survived in the North of Europe, far removed from his
native soil, is a rather audacious suggestion. But the keen observer
can find him in Great Britain, Scandinavia and the Baltic provinces
today. The conquerors and seafarers coming from the South have carried
the pollen of gastronomic flowers far into the North where they
adjusted themselves to soil and climate. Many a cook of the British
isles, of Southern Sweden, Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania
still observes Apicius rules though he may not be aware of the fact.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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