We may safely join Vollmer in his belief that M. Gabius Apicius,
celebrated gourmet living during the reign of Tiberius was the real
author, or collector, or sponsor of this collection of recipes, or at
least of the major part thereof--the formulæ bearing the names of
posterior gourmets having been added from time to time. This theory
also applies to the two instances where the name of Varro is mentioned
in connection with the preparation of beets and onions (bulbs). It is
hardly possible that the author of the book made these references to
Varro. It is more probable that some well-versed posterior reader,
perusing the said articles, added to his copy: "And Varro prepared
beets this way, and onions that way...." (cf. Book III, [70]) Still,
there is no certainty in this theory either. There were many persons
by the names of Commodus, Trajanus, Frontinianus, such as are
appearing in our text, who were contemporaries of Apicius.
With our mind at ease as regards the genuineness of our book we now
may view it at a closer range.
OBSCURE TERMINOLOGY
Apicius contains technical terms that have been the subject of much
speculation and discussion. _Liquamen_, _laser_, _muria_, _garum_,
etc., belong to these. They will be found in our little dictionary.
But we cannot refrain from discussing some at present to make
intelligible the most essential part of the ancient text.
Take _liquamen_ for instance. It may stand for broth, sauce, stock,
gravy, drippings, even for _court bouillon_--in fact for any liquid
appertaining to or derived from a certain dish or food material. Now,
if Apicius prescribes _liquamen_ for the preparation of a meat or a
vegetable, it is by no means clear to the uninitiated what he has in
mind. In fact, in each case the term _liquamen_ is subject to the
interpretation of the experienced practitioner. Others than he would
at once be confronted with an unsurmountable difficulty. Scientists
may not agree with us, but such is kitchen practice. Hence the many
fruitless controversies at the expense of the original, at the
disappointment of science.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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