_Garum_ is another word, one upon which much contemptuous witticism
and serious energy has been spent. _Garum_ simply is a generic name
for fish essences. True, _garus_ is a certain and a distinct kind of
Mediterranean fish, originally used in the manufacture of _garum_; but
this product, in the course of time, has been altered, modified,
adulterated,--in short, has been changed and the term has naturally
been applied to all varieties and variations of fish essences, without
distinction, and it has thus become a collective term, covering all
varieties of fish sauces. Indeed, the corruption and degeneration of
this term, _garum_, had so advanced at the time of Vinidarius in the
fifth century as to lose even its association with any kind of fish.
Terms like _garatum_ (prepared with g.) have been derived from it.
Prepared with the addition of wine it becomes _œnogarum_,--wine
sauce--and dishes prepared with such wine sauce receive the adjective
of _œnogaratum_, and so forth.
The original _garum_ was no doubt akin to our modern anchovy sauce, at
least the best quality of the ancient sauce. The principles of
manufacture surely are alike. _Garum_, like our anchovy sauce, is the
_purée_ of a small fish, named _garus_, as yet unidentified. The fish,
intestines and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, strained
and bottled for future use. The finest _garum_ was made of the livers
of the fish only, exposed to the sun, fermented, somehow preserved. It
was an expensive article in old Rome, famed for its medicinal
properties. Its mode of manufacture has given rise to much criticism
and scorn on the part of medieval and modern commentators and
interpreters who could not comprehend the "perverse taste" of the
ancients in placing any value on the "essence from putrified
intestines of fish."
However, _garum_ has been vindicated, confirmed, endorsed, reiterated,
rediscovered, if you please, by modern science! What, pray, is the
difference in principle between _garum_ (the exact nature of which is
unknown) and the oil of the liver of cod (or less expensive fish)
exposed to the beneficial rays of ultraviolet light--artificial
sunlight--to imbue the oil with an extra large and uniform dose of
vitamin D? The ancients, it appears, knew "vitamin D" to exist. Maybe
they had a different name for "vitamins," maybe none at all. The name
does not matter. The thing which they knew, does. They knew the
nutritive value of liver, proven by many formulæ. Pollio, one of the
vicious characters of antiquity, fed murenas (sea-eel) with slaves he
threw into the _piscina_, the fish pond, and later enjoyed the liver
of the fish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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