Some "modern" preparations are astonishingly ancient, and _vice
versa_. Our anchovy sauce is used freely to season fish, to mix with
butter, to be made into solid anchovy or fish paste. There are sardine
pastes, lobster pastes, fish forcemeats found in the larder of every
good kitchen--preparations of Apician character. A real platter of
_hors d'oeuvres_, an _antipasto_ is not complete unless made according
to certain Apician precepts.
_Muria_ is salt water, brine, yet it may stand for a fluid in which
fish or meat, fruits or vegetables have been pickled.
The difficulties of the translator of Apicius who takes him literally,
are unconsciously but neatly demonstrated by the work of Danneil. Even
he, seasoned practitioner, condemns _garum_, _muria_, _asa
fœtida_, because professors before him have done so, because he
forgets that these very materials still form a vital part of some of
his own sauces only in a different shape, form or under a different
name. Danneil calls some Apician recipes "incredibly absurd,"
"fabulous," "exaggerated," but he thinks nothing of the serving of
similar combinations in his own establishment every day in the year.
Danneil would take pride in serving a Veal Cutlet à la Holstein. (What
have we learned of Apicius in the Northern countries?). The ancient
Holsteiner was not satisfied unless his piece of veal was covered with
a nice fat herring. That "barbarity" had to be modified by us moderns
into a veal cutlet, turned in milk and flour, eggs and bread crumbs,
fried, covered with fried eggs, garnished with anchovies or bits of
herring, red beets, capers, and lemon in order to qualify for a
restaurant favorite and "best seller." Apicius hardly has a dish more
characteristic and more bewildering.
What of combinations of fish and meat?
_De gustibus non est disputandum._ It all goes into the same stomach.
May it be a sturdy one, and let its owner beware. What of our turkey
and oyster dressing? Of our broiled fish and bacon? Of our clam
chowder, our divine _Bouillabaisse_? If the ingredients and component
parts of such dishes were enumerated in the laconic and careless
Apician style, if they were stated without explicit instructions and
details (supposed to be known to any good practitioner) we would have
recipes just as mysterious as any of the Apician formulæ.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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