Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Besides the increase of dry land, indicated by the foregoing facts, the
exterior solid reef appears to have grown outwards. On the western side
of the atoll, the “flat” lying between the margin of the reef and the
beach, is very wide; and in front of the regular beach with its
conglomerate basis, there is, in most parts, a bed of sand and loose
fragments with trees growing out of it, which apparently is not reached
even by the spray at high water. It is evident some change has taken
place since the waves formed the inner beach; that they formerly beat
against it with violence was evident, from a remarkably thick and
water-worn point of conglomerate at one spot, now protected by
vegetation and a bank of sand; that they beat against it in the same
peculiar manner in which the swell from windward now obliquely curls
round the margin of the reef, was evident from the conglomerate having
been worn into a point projecting from the beach in a similarly oblique
manner. This retreat in the line of action of the breakers might
result, either from the surface of the reef in front of the islets
having been submerged at one time, and afterward having grown upwards,
or from the mounds of coral on the margin having continued to grow
outwards. That an outward growth of this part is in process, can hardly
be doubted from the fact already mentioned of the mounds of Porites
with their summits apparently lately killed, and their sides only three
or four inches lower down thickened by a fresh layer of living coral.
But there is a difficulty on this supposition which I must not pass
over. If the whole, or a large part of the “flat,” had been formed by
the outward growth of the margin, each successive margin would
naturally have been coated by the Nulliporæ, and so much of the surface
would have been of equal height with the existing zone of living
Nulliporæ: this is not the case, as may be seen in the woodcut. It is,
however, evident from the abraded state of the “flat,” with its
original inequalities filled up, that its surface has been much
modified; and it is possible that the hinder portions of the zone of
Nulliporæ, perishing as the reef grows outwards, might be worn down by
the surf. If this has not taken place, the reef can in no part have
increased outwards in breadth since its formation, or at least since
the Nulliporæ formed the convex mound on its margin; for the zone thus
formed, and which stands between two and three feet above the other
parts of the reef, is nowhere much above twenty yards in width.
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