Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Thus far we have considered facts, which indicate, with more or less
probability, the increase of the atoll in its different parts: there
are others having an opposite tendency. On the south-east side,
Lieutenant Sulivan, to whose kindness I am indebted for many
interesting observations, found the conglomerate projecting on the reef
nearly fifty yards in front of the beach: we may infer from what we see
in all other parts of the atoll, that the conglomerate was not
originally so much exposed, but formed the base of an islet, the front
and upper part of which has since been swept away. The degree to which
the conglomerate, round nearly the whole atoll, has been scooped,
broken up, and the fragments cast on the beach, is certainly very
surprising, even on the view that it is the office of occasional gales
to pile up fragments, and of the daily tides to wear them away. On the
western side, also, of the atoll, where I have described a bed of sand
and fragments with trees growing out of it, in front of an old beach,
it struck both Lieutenant Sulivan and myself, from the manner in which
the trees were being washed down, that the surf had lately recommenced
an attack on this line of coast. Appearances indicating a slight
encroachment of the water on the land, are plainer within the lagoon: I
noticed in several places, both on its windward and leeward shores, old
cocoa-nut trees falling with their roots undermined, and the rotten
stumps of others on the beach, where the inhabitants assured us the
cocoa-nut could not now grow. Captain Fitzroy pointed out to me, near
the settlement, the foundation posts of a shed, now washed by every
tide, but which the inhabitants stated, had seven years before stood
above high watermark. In the calm waters of the lagoon, directly
connected with a great, and therefore stable ocean, it seems very
improbable that a change in the currents, sufficiently great to cause
the water to eat into the land on all sides, should have taken place
within a limited period. From these considerations I inferred, that
probably the atoll had lately subsided to a small amount; and this
inference was strengthened by the circumstance, that in 1834, two years
before our visit, the island had been shaken by a severe earthquake,
and by two slighter ones during the ten previous years. If, during
these subterranean disturbances, the atoll did subside, the downward
movement must have been very small, as we must conclude from the fields
of dead coral still lipping the surface of the lagoon, and from the
breakers on the western shore not having yet regained the line of their
former action. The subsidence must, also, have been preceded by a long
period of rest, during which the islets extended to their present size,
and the living margin of the reef grew either upwards, or as I believe
outwards, to its present distance from the beach.
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