Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Passages between the islets on the reef, through which boats can pass
at high water, must not be confounded with ship-channels, by which the
annular reef itself is breached. The passages between the islets occur,
of course, on the windward as well as on the leeward side; but they are
more frequent and broader to leeward, owing to the lesser dimensions of
the islets on that side.
[20] “Principles of Geology,” volume iii., page 289.
[21] Beechey’s “Voyage,” 4to edition, volume i., page 189.
At Keeling atoll the shores of the lagoon shelve gradually, where the
bottom is of sediment, and irregularly or abruptly where there are
coral-reefs; but this is by no means the universal structure in other
atolls. Chamisso,[22] speaking in general terms of the lagoons in the
Marshall atolls, says the lead generally sinks “from a depth of two or
three fathoms to twenty or twenty-four, and you may pursue a line in
which on one side of the boat you may see the bottom, and on the other
the azure-blue deep water.” The shores of the lagoon-like channel
within the barrier-reef at Vanikoro have a similar structure. Captain
Beechey has described a modification of this structure (and he believes
it is not uncommon) in two atolls in the Low Archipelago, in which the
shores of the lagoon descend by a few, broad, slightly inclined ledges
or steps: thus at Matilda atoll,[23] the great exterior reef, the
surface of which is gently inclined towards and beneath the surface of
the lagoon, ends abruptly in a little cliff three fathoms deep; at its
foot, a ledge forty yards wide extends, shelving gently inwards like
the surface-reef, and terminated by a second little cliff five fathoms
deep; beyond this, the bottom of the lagoon slopes to twenty fathoms,
which is the average depth of its centre. These ledges seem to be
formed of coral-rock; and Captain Beechey says that the lead often
descended several fathoms through holes in them. In some atolls, all
the coral reefs or knolls in the lagoon come to the surface at low
water; in other cases of rarer occurrence, all lie at nearly the same
depth beneath it, but most frequently they are quite irregular,—some
with perpendicular, some with sloping sides,—some rising to the
surface, and others lying at all intermediate depths from the bottom
upwards. I cannot, therefore, suppose that the union of such reefs
could produce even one uniformly sloping ledge, and much less two or
three, one beneath the other, and each terminated by an abrupt wall. At
Matilda Island, which offers the best example of the step-like
structure, Captain Beechey observes that the coral-knolls within the
lagoon are quite irregular in their height. We shall hereafter see that
the theory which accounts for the ordinary form of atolls, apparently
includes this occasional peculiarity in their structure.
[22] Kotzebue’s “First Voyage,” volume iii., page 142.
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