Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
I can give little information regarding the kinds of corals which live
on the outer margin. When I visited the reef at Tahiti, although it was
low water, the surf was too violent for me to see the living masses;
but, according to what I heard from some intelligent native chiefs,
they resemble in their rounded and branchless forms, those on the
margin of Keeling atoll. The extreme verge of the reef, which was
visible between the breaking waves at low water, consisted of a
rounded, convex, artificial-like breakwater, entirely coated with
Nulliporæ, and absolutely similar to that which I have described at
Keeling atoll. From what I heard when at Tahiti, and from the writings
of the Revs. W. Ellis and J. Williams, I conclude that this peculiar
structure is common to most of the encircled islands of the Society
Archipelago. The reef within this mound or breakwater, has an extremely
irregular surface, even more so than between the islets on the reef of
Keeling atoll, with which alone (as there are no islets on the reef of
Tahiti) it can properly be compared. At Tahiti, the reef is very
irregular in width; but round many other encircled islands, for
instance, Vanikoro or Gambier Islands (Figures 1 and 8, Plate I.), it
is quite as regular, and of the same average width, as in true atolls.
Most barrier-reefs on the inner side slope irregularly into the
lagoon-channel (as the space of deep water separating the reef from the
included land may be called), but at Vanikoro the reef slopes only for
a short distance, and then terminates abruptly in a submarine wall,
forty feet high,—a structure absolutely similar to that described by
Chamisso in the Marshall atolls.
In the Society Archipelago, Ellis[3] states, that the reefs generally
lie at the distance of from one to one and a half miles, and,
occasionally, even at more than three miles, from the shore. The
central mountains are generally bordered by a fringe of flat, and often
marshy, alluvial land, from one to four miles in width. This fringe
consists of coral-sand and detritus thrown up from the lagoon-channel,
and of soil washed down from the hills; it is an encroachment on the
channel, analogous to that low and inner part of the islets in many
atolls which is formed by the accumulation of matter from the lagoon.
At Hogoleu (Figure 2, Plate I.), in the Caroline Archipelago,[4] the
reef on the south side is no less than twenty miles; on the east side,
five; and on the north side, fourteen miles from the encircled high
islands.
[3] Consult, on this and other points, the “Polynesian Researches,” by
the Rev. W. Ellis, an admirable work, full of curious information.
[4] See “Hydrographical Mem.” and the “Atlas of the Voyage of the
_Astrolabe_,” by Captain Dumont D’Urville, page 428.
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