Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
The lagoon channels may be compared in every respect with true lagoons.
In some cases they are open, with a level bottom of fine sand; in
others they are choked up with reefs of delicately branched corals,
which have the same general character as those within the Keeling
atoll. These internal reefs either stand separately, or more commonly
skirt the shores of the included high islands. The depth of the
lagoon-channel round the Society Islands varies from two or three to
thirty fathoms; in Cook’s[5] chart of Ulieta, however, there is one
sounding laid down of forty-eight fathoms; at Vanikoro there are
several of fifty-four and one of fifty-six and a half fathoms
(English), a depth which even exceeds by a little that of the interior
of the great Maldiva atolls. Some barrier-reefs have very few islets on
them; whilst others are surmounted by numerous ones; and those round
part of Bolabola (Plate I., Figure 5) form a single linear strip. The
islets first appear either on the angles of the reef, or on the sides
of the breaches through it, and are generally most numerous on the
windward side. The reef to leeward retaining its usual width, sometimes
lies submerged several fathoms beneath the surface; I have already
mentioned Gambier Island as an instance of this structure. Submerged
reefs, having a less defined outline, dead, and covered with sand, have
been observed (see Appendix) off some parts of Huaheine and Tahiti. The
reef is more frequently breached to leeward than to windward; thus I
find in Krusenstern’s “Memoir on the Pacific,” that there are passages
through the encircling reef on the leeward side of each of the seven
Society Islands, which possess ship-harbours; but that there are
openings to windward through the reef of only three of them. The
breaches in the reef are seldom as deep as the interior lagoon-like
channel; they generally occur in front of the main valleys, a
circumstance which can be accounted for, as will be seen in the fourth
chapter, without much difficulty. The breaches being situated in front
of the valleys, which descend indifferently on all sides, explains
their more frequent occurrence through the windward side of
barrier-reefs than through the windward side of atolls,—for in atolls
there is no included land to influence the position of the breaches.
[5] See the chart in volume i. of Hawkesworth’s 4to edition of “Cook’s
First Voyage.”
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