Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
Down the Rocky Valley a stream gushes merrily, tumbling in miniature
waterfalls every few yards, and meeting at last the oncoming wave with a
shock as the sweet water mingles with salt. Everything grows amazingly,
and the huge rectangular rocks high overhead on each side of the gully,
are mostly draped in masses of ivy. They resemble ruins, as Cornish
rocks often do, so that it is frequently most difficult to distinguish
the natural from the artificial. Most people's idea of ivy is neat flat
clinging stuff but here it grows in lumps, yards in thickness, and
decorated with brilliant bunches of black berries in the season when
there is little else to compete with it. In the valley which leads from
the nearest station, Camelford, to Tintagel just such masses may be
seen. The road runs downhill for about four miles, leading mysteriously
into what seems the mouth of a quarry. The sides are covered with
untidy, loose clumps of furze, with mighty stones, and ever and always,
in all corners, moss so rich that it might almost be mistaken for a bed
of miniature ferns. Climb up on one side and you get a glimpse into a
pool, with sides sheer like a hewn cistern, and something so weird and
awful in its onyx depths that it suggests robbery with violence,
suicides, hangings, and anything else gruesome, while the water drips
perpetually from the green lines of slime on its sharp walls. Further on
are the glistening piles of slate from a disused quarry. The real quarry
of Delabole, famous far and wide, is behind, beside the railway, from
which one may look right down into it. The road to Tintagel opens out at
last and then, if we are lucky enough to be going westward at sunset, we
may see suddenly a hazy glow as of a forest fire over all the wide
expanse of sea and sky, and outlined against it the great black lumps of
rock off Trebarwith Strand.
With Tintagel must be associated Boscastle but a few miles along the
coast to the north, for hardly anyone who visits the one place will fail
to see the other, yet the two are singularly different. Boscastle lies
all down the sides of one of those curious clefts, which would be called
chines or denes elsewhere, and in this instance the drop is
extraordinarily steep. To go sheer down is a feat most people will find
difficult, even on foot, and the new road has been designed to help.
Even that would be accounted steep in any ordinary place. Down, down it
goes into the neck of the funnel, and looks for all the world as if it
were leading to a slate quarry, and then suddenly there opens out one of
the grandest harbours on the coast, with huge sloping cliffs running
alongside and curving round, making the entrance both difficult and
dangerous. With their lovely curves and angles they add greatly to the
vision. From the heights of these cliffs Lundy Island can be seen when
the air is clear. There is an old saw:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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