Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Elizabeth introduced the whalebone corset, and hers might well have
been called the "wire and whalebone age," for the influence of these
was needed for the petticoats, the gowns and stays, and it had a
considerable share in the good conduct of the ruffles which extended
some nine inches from the neck. In France the ruffles were so enormous
that they hardly allowed their wearers to turn their heads at all, and
courtiers who affected them were provided with long-handled spoons to
enable them to take their soup in comfort. These huge ruffs were trimmed
with lace outlined with wire threads to ensure sufficient stiffness,
a demand creating the supply of starch, which made its appearance in
this century, being introduced by the wife of Elizabeth's coachman, who
established herself as Lady High Laundress of the Court, and made at once
a competence and a reputation. Ruffs were of yellow as well as white,
and yellow too were some of the extensive lace collars jewelled and
embroidered in gold, which with wired edges outlined the shoulders of all
dresses worn on state occasions.
Pins and ribbons were first brought into use in the reign of Elizabeth,
and really to her interest in the subject of fashion we owe much. Silk
stockings amongst other things, such as cosmetics, face washes and
perfumes, and embroidered and scented gloves, and fans made of ostrich or
peacock feathers with gold and silver handles, were adopted by the men as
well as by the women.
Of the many head-dresses favoured by Elizabeth one resembled a cushion,
ornamented with jewels; another, known as a ship-tire, left the neck and
shoulders bare; and another, dubbed the tire valiant, was made of many
kerchiefs, so disposed as to allow only the nose, eyes, and mouth to be
visible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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