Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical — John Shaqi
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Madame de Pompadour represented in her century everything that was most
beautiful, most desirable, and most alluring, and she played her part
as pioneer of fashion with a fierce, reckless enthusiasm, and, from the
crown of her rolled hair to the tip of her embroidered shoes, expressed
conclusively the prodigal and the pretty. Upon her feet she bestowed
considerable attention, and narrow pointed shoes were amongst her
innovations; she would have them decked with every conceivable conceit,
and kick her red heels in defiance of public opinion. A pair of her shoes
are even now kept in the Museum at Cluny, and these are embroidered in
a design of green foliage, outlined with silver, clasped with silver
buckles glittering with old paste. Fans also were amongst her weaknesses;
she had these of every size and shape, with long handles which could not
be folded, and mounts of carved and decorated ivory, some of her Chinese
fans being worth a small fortune.
Mrs. Delany's letters may be the foundation for a liberal education in
the art of costume as practised in England in the eighteenth century,
and her description of Lady Huntingdon's dress at a Court ball is as
vivid as remarkable, reflecting at once credit on the Boswell and the
inspiration:--
Her petticoat was of black velvet embroidered with chenille, the
pattern a large stone vase filled with ramping flowers, which
spread almost over the breadth of the petticoat from the top to
the bottom; between each vase of flowers was a pattern of gold
shells and foliage embossed and most heavily rich. The gown was
white satin embroidered also with chenille mixed with gold, no
vase on the sleeve, but two or three on the tail; it was a most
laboured piece of finery, the pattern much properer for a stucco
staircase than the apparel of a lady.
She also writes the description of a dress she is going to wear at the
wedding of Princess Anne (George II.'s eldest daughter) and Prince
William of Nassau and Orange in 1734:--
I have got my wedding garment ready; 'tis a brocaded lute-string
white ground, with great ramping flowers in shades of purples,
reds, and greens. I gave thirteen shillings a yard: which looks
better than it describes, and it will make a show. I shall wear it
with dark purple and gold ribbon, and a black hood for decency's
sake.
And again she describes:
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