Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The Princess of Orange's dress was the prettiest thing that ever
was seen--a _corps de robe_--that is, in plain English, a stiff
bodied gown. The eight peers' daughters that held up her train
were in the same sort of dress, all white and silver, with great
quantities of jewels in their hair and long locks; some of them
very pretty and well-shaped, it is a most becoming dress. The
Princess wore a mantua and petticoat, white damask with the finest
embroidery of rich embossed gold. On one side of her head she had
a green diamond of vast size, the shape of a pear, and two pearls
prodigiously large that were fastened to wires and hung loose in
her hair; on the other side small diamonds prettily disposed; her
ear-rings, necklace, and bars to her stays all extravagantly fine,
presents of the Prince of Orange to her.
In the same letter she says: "The Queen commended my clothes."
In the reign of Louis XV. the English borrowed all their fashions from
France. The beautiful Austrian, Marie Antoinette, came in a blaze of
splendour to charm and astonish every one, and the loveliest ladies of
her Court, headed by her friend the Princess de Lamballe, vied with her
in inaugurating a reign of costume which was to have been "roses, roses
all the way." Alas, however, thorns made themselves felt only too soon.
In her early days the Queen seemed to have no care save that noble lover
of hers and her dressmaker; and she studied the minor details of the
etiquette of her Court so assiduously that we have the amusing history of
her disrobing, surrounded by a bevy of ladies, each taking their turn in
handing their royal mistress her chemise.
Marie Antoinette's delicate beauty called for pale colours, and green and
pink and puce were amongst the favoured tones, the last mentioned taking
its name from no more attractive source than the back of a flea. Her
earlier dresses displayed stiff pointed bodices with stomachers, held
with little tied bows of velvet, and paniers bunched liberally on the
hips to show the under-dress of lace, bordered with flounces, headed and
festooned with roses. The _décolletage_ was square, and the elbow sleeves
had frills of lace.
[Illustration: MARIE ANTOINETTE.]
The paniers grew daily in size, and evoked the inevitable denunciation
which waits punctually upon the heels of any favourite of fashion. Marie
Antoinette varied her corsets to suit her bodices, therein showing much
wisdom, since obviously the short-waisted bodice asks beneath it a stay
totally different from that needed beneath a bodice which is cut in a
long point in front. Her fichus were as elaborate as dainty, and the
method of their adjustment varied in half-a-dozen different ways--they
would be crossed over the bust and tied at the back, or tucked into
the waistband, or fastened high on the bust with bunches of ribbons or
flowers.
[Illustration: A PEIGNOIR.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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