Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Man's last aspiration towards dandyism gasped and died in the embrace of
the stock of Count D'Orsay. Now, woman alone rules the roost of fashion,
man is "no longer dressed but clothed," and under feminine autocracy,
dress, whose interests are widely and publicly recognised, has reached a
position of primary importance. No more are these interests represented
in an unwanted corner of a monthly periodical, or in the letters of the
town cousin to the country cousin, or in the counsels of perfection
signed by "the old woman." They maintain various journals established
in their honour, and in the field of Fashion England has risen from
the ranks to leadership; while a wide plain of cheap selection opens
to the proletariat the chance to beautify their outer as well as their
under wear, which has emerged from the uncompromising confines of stiff
long-cloth and Madeira work to the seductive limits encompassed by fine
lawn and embroidery, allied to Valenciennes lace and soft ribbon.
As I write, Fashion seems a pleasantly moderate thing, and the summer-day
dress of white linen, with a broad-brimmed hat encircled by the floating
veil, and the evening dress of chiffon garlanded with chiffon, appear to
justify my suspicion that "whatever is, is right, in the world of dress."
And, when I remember that the "picture" dress of to-day was the garb of
convention yesterday, I can hope that our bespangled nets and tinselled
brocades will in due course be encircled with charm from the halo of the
bygone. May it also, I pray, come to soften the hardest outline of our
leather-trimmed tweed and serge costumes of sport, and to exercise a
benign influence upon our disproportionate figures and our perky toques!
CHAPTER X
OF BRITISH PEASANTS
While searching in the annals of the bygone costume of the peasant, the
most democratic person might be tempted to regret the repealing of all
sumptuary law. We are grateful to-day to recognise the artistic value
of the red tie of the masculine tiller of the field, or of the coloured
handkerchief over the head of the harvest-woman, but, in those other
times, the plains and the fields, the woods and the forests, were the
background for a people in brave array, on which blue, red, green, and
white played conspicuous part. And not alone in colour must their garb
have been pre-eminently attractive to the eye, but in the simplicity of
its make, the liberal display of white linen about the neck and the head,
and the further addition of coloured lacings. These completed an effect
of picturesque carelessness which may well have been allowed to cover a
multitude of sins of omission in personal cleanliness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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